1000 de cat

[cam]

Hi guys
has anyone actually removed their catalytic converters yet and if so what will happen to the fueling with lower back pressure? I've previously read of someone doing this and gaining an increase in power. I'm with boilermaker when he says he wants to remove them - red hot pipes with stick coil problems just aint on. Any ideas chaps?

[tomtom]

If a stock off the shelf de cat is too expensive it can't be that difficult to make. It's only stainless pipe of the right grade and thickness, a bit of seamless stainless pipe (correct grade)and a hydraulic pipe bender and a couple of adapter sleeves or drift the ends to suit.

The right shape can be obtained by using a soft thin walled pipe as a template, it's only metal pipe.

[boilermaker]

TO ALL
Hopefully removing cat this week-end

[tomtom]

What are you getting instead.
A dog

[cam]

If a stock off the shelf de cat is too expensive it can't be that difficult to make. It's only stainless pipe of the right grade and thickness, a bit of seamless stainless pipe (correct grade)and a hydraulic pipe bender and a couple of adapter sleeves or drift the ends to suit.

The right shape can be obtained by using a soft thin walled pipe as a template, it's only metal pipe.

As you correctly point out making of the pipe is relatively easy - however it is the effect on engine performance good or bad that concerns me

[boilermaker]

to all
I have no intention of replacing this abomination with anything resembling an exhaust obstruction and if it is anything like a car catalyst then it will be a platignum mesh in a ceramic matrix. It should be easy to crumble the ceramic and remove it without recourse to any plumbing changes. The freer flow of gasses through the system may have a temporary effect on the fuelling but at the moment I think the patially fused matrix could be the cause of some of my low speed fuelling problems. We shall see.

[tomtom]

Removing the matrix in the cat seems to make sense. I think some ducati's sold in the states have the cat on but inside its only mesh gubbins. Maybe some of the states people can expand on this.
What about at mot time, will it pass, once they stick the gas analyser on. Maybe because the bike is relatively unknown they might not have the data for the bike to say it needs a catalyst .
Do bikes manufactured after a certain date require one under eu rules..

[LWS66]

I've looked inside the pipes and contemplated either drilling or chiseling the cats out. But after doing alot of searching on various other bike make forums (this is a often asked question) and removing the cats, the general concensus is that it's a bitch to do, not as easy as it looks, and you will lose torque, low end response. Almost all who have done this say not to do it. The bike does'nt respond as well. With remapping and if the sections of cat were cut out and a smaller diameter piece of pipe was welded in (like some here have talked of doing) then it might be a good idea. I only assume this from what I've read, and based on what I understand about exhaust flow and hp/torque. I myself would prefer the cut out/weld in method vs hacking.....I'l wait for some brave soul to lead the way!

[boilermaker]

to all
Well lads, after 2 hours of work I finally got as far as dismantling the exhaust system prior to removal. The first stumbling block was in the shape of the Lambda sensor. This device lives in a very hot and corrosive environment and like any other component exposed to these conditions tends to form a corrosive oxide in its mating threads, SO WHY DO THE BLOODY CRETINS IN THE AUTO INDUSTRY STILL USE LOCTITE ON THE THREADS! Following the use of big spanners, heat, penetrating fluid etc I reverted to type and applied sharp force in the form of a small cross cut chisel and a small ball pein hammer. This finally broke the loctite/oxide lock on the thread. However rotating the sensor rotated the wires also, thank god the thread ran out before the wires snapped. On examining the open ends of the exhast the catalytic honeycombe could be clearly seen but proved to be of a metallic type that would not respond to any attempts to crumble and remove. Oh well, off to the workshop, the slitting saw, and TIG set. The pencil coils were removed and will be replaced either with a normal seperate coil/ plug cap system or some Denso pencil coils. Interestingly the Lamda sensor was made by NGK in japan. Will keep you posted.

[johnny2tents]

Dear All,

More on exhausts.

Cut and pasted from a German web site. http://www.mz-faber.de/MZWeb/catalog

This 2 into 1 racing exhaust mentions a Lambda Sensor. What feedback to the ECU it gives I am trying to detemine.

This exhaust alledgedly provides 130 PS when coupled to their own map and a modified (drilled) airbox.

Sorry about the prices! J2T

Auspuffanlagen SR-Racing-Anlage 2in1 mit ABE!

Zur Galerie Details:
* Ab sofort mit ABE!
* 2in1 incl, Krümmeranlage für alle 1000er Modelle
* Material: kpl.Krümmeranlage beste VA-Rohr-Qualität
* Konische Rohre mit Hosenrohr und Lambda-Sonde Anschluß
* Großer Titan-Enddämpfer
* Kateinsatz im Endschalldämpfer
* 9 Kg. Gewichtsersparniss gegenüber der Serienanlage!
* Eintragung für Straßeneinsatz über eine Phonmessung möglich!

Hinweis!
Erreichbare Leistung mit offener Airbox: 130 PS und 115N/m möglich , dabei ist ein neues Mapping erforderlich!
Alle MZ-1000S im 24Std. Rennen von Oschersleben waren damit ausgerüstet!

Vorsicht!
Der Anbau der 2in1 Auspuffanlage in Verbindung mit dem offenen Filterdeckel und dem Serienmapping 2006 ist ohne Abänderung der Kennfelder nicht mehr möglich da die Abmagerung zur Zerstörung der Ventile führen kann!Ein passendes Mapping dazu ist vorhanden, auch die passende Programierung für AU-Abgasuntersuchung ist im Mapping enthalten.

Durch die neue Form der VA-Krümmerrohre muß der Oelkühler nach vorne versetzt werden. Beachten Sie das bei Ihrer Bestellung.der entsprechenden Versatzbleche!
SR-Racing Anlage 2in1
(Art.-Nr. MZRACING2/1) 915,26 €
Seitenständeranschlag
(Art.-Nr. 50305012000) 8,70 €
Versatz-Haltbleche für Oelkühler
(Art.-Nr. Versatzbleche f.2in1 Anlage) 20,00 €
Pulverbeschichtung schwarz f.SR-2in1
(Art.-Nr. SR-Pulverbeschichtung schwarz) 150,00 €

[boilermaker]

Johnny
The Lambda sensor reads the percentage of Oxygen remaining in the spent exhaust gasses as a measure of combustion efficiency. This allows the EMU to adjust the fuelling to suit. I am replacing mine as a matter of course during my exhaust mods.

[johnny2tents]

Agreed, but I was wondering whether the output from the Lamda Sensor in the racing exhaust is different, so that it fools the ECU into thinking that it is running lean? Obviously am ignorant of the facts but guess that the sensors could be different based on different nominal operating temperatures which would change by vehicle/exhaust type/back pressure?
Don't want to turn into geek though, and as the round the world Volvo ocean racers are in Galway just now, it's time to head off to the quays for a pint or two!
Cheers J2T

[boilermaker]

Johnny
Have one for me!
Well chaps I removed the end of one of the cat chambers (the concentric one) with a slitting disc, making the cut close to the weld and removed the end (after witness marking). The outer end of the catalytic matrix was then fully exposed. It did not fall out as expected! four large holes down through it with a 12mm/half inch masonry bit followed but then a slow and tedious process of cutting down through between the holes with an old wood chisel was used to break up the matrx even further and finally followed by collapsing the remainder inward and extracting it. About an hours work in total. Will weld the end back on tomorrow. A word of warning, the dust etc arising from this operation can be toxic so a dust mask and paper overalls should be used. Also the inside of the pipe ends to be welded should be cleaned of any remaining debris adhering to the internal pipe wall as it may vapourise during the welding operation and be inhaled by the poor chap doing you a favour. Will keep you posted and try and get some photos.

[boilermaker]

to all
Well that's both cats out in the bin/trash can where they belong, very satisfying to destroy a product of the politically correct no-brain society. Both end caps welded back on. Now to order a new Lambda sensor from the NGK website and begin the re-build replacing a weeping alternator side gasket along the way. Oh by the way when removing this cover do so carefully as the starter motor shaft outer bearing is in the casing and a clumsy removal can result in a pile of gears and shims on the floor. There will be some ressistance to removal caused by the alternator magnets holding on. If you need to leave the casing off for a long time then use a "keeper" to prevent the magnets losing attraction when seperated.

[boilermaker]

to all
Thats the alternator side casing back on with a new gasket Quite a pig to fit owing to the alternator magnets "grabbing" before you have time to line up properly or remove your fingers! The starter gear carrier shaft is a tight fit in the outer casing but care is required when re- tightening the casing screws as an improperly centred shaft will punch through the outer casing. When I have located a supplier for the new Lambda sensor (serching is like wading through treacle) same stupid answers all the time "we dont do bike stuff" etc etc. May have finally cracked it with the UK NTK (NGK) importer who says that the number on the old unit is probably a home market one and he will try and cross refer for a suitable aftermarket item. Then a couple of copper exhaust gaskets from my local "quick fit" agent and we should be on our way back to a functioning machine.