MZ/MuZ Riders

Just wanted to thank everyone that replied to my questions.... all great info and helped make the decision a bit easier.
I went down and test rode the bike, handled great, had good mid range, but kind of ran out of steam at about 8k. Short shifting allowed me to stay with the TL1000 that lead the ride with no issue, cornering was very stable, brakes are great.
So I go pick her up next week, I'm getting an extra tank, a bunch of air filters, service manual and other bits.

Which leads to new questions:
I read that putting a bigger sprocket in the rear or a smaller in the front really helps this bike, at least that was suggested in a 2005 article from Motorcycle-usa.com. Is that a good idea, I have done that with my Duc's and love the results, I do not need top end. I spend most of my time in real twisty stuff where mid range/low end grunt are key. Good Idea, bad idea?

This bike has a power commander (which I'm not sure is specifically for the MZ) and a modified stock exhaust (stock header, block off at split in front of rear wheel, to a single right side Yosh shorty pipe from a TL1000. Pipe was cut in half and re-banded to make the shorty)
Should I be running out of steam at 7.5-8k? Feels like the it just gives up making power...like it has a sock suddenly rammed in it's intake but up shift and get it back down into the 6-7 range and it lights up and takes right off. Is this a power commander setting issue, pipe issue? Will changing the gearing make this worse or better?

Never ran into anything like this before to be honest. Generally I am mating a race exhaust with the ECU/air box combo that is manufacturer recommended, and all is good. The shop this is coming from does a LOT of TL1000 work and racing, so it seems a lot of the add on parts are TL1000 specific, and modified to fit/work, such as the pazzo levers/frame sliders/exhaust can.

Is it worth getting the race pipe/airbox setup? Does it use a power commander or some other ECU?
Thought is based on one ride chasing a TL1000, and there were spots where a little more HP would be nice.

Last question, is it worth buying the diagnostic computer, as there is no one I know of anywhere near me that might have one. This shop is a MZ dealer and they did not feel the purchase was required.... but then again they only got one in and it did not sell, the owner started riding it.

Any thoughts/input/suggestions/recommendations are always appreciated.

Thank you again everyone and I'm looking forward to some end of season rips on this bike....and then some mods over the winter... should be fun!

Scott

Hi Scott,
To greatly improve general feel/smooth out the drive I recently replaced my 1000s sprockets with 45 tooth rear (Yamaha R1) and 16 rear (Honda Fireblade). Would highly recommend this mod. Really does transform the bike, especially if not concerned with top speed etc.
The restrained feel you are having 8K onwards is not normal and in my humble opinion I would suspect the exhaust in the first instance. Blocking off at the Y piece is probably causing mayhem with flow. Half cut silencer also sounds like poor engineering. These bikes fly, believe me! Also have a Bimota sb8rs (tuned TL motor) and low down the 1000s feels easily as rapid.
If you do change the sprockets the front Honda types do not have the rubber cushioning ring like the OE sprocket. In use I can not hear or feel any increased vibration etc.
Hope this helps,
Regards, Gary.

Running out of steam at the rev's you state ain't right. I've got the 16/45 sprocket combo, PC w/stock setup map (which makes a big improvement by itself) Sebring Twister cans (w/baffles in) a K&N filter, modified airbox (opened up and smoothed internal surfaces) Denso Iridium plugs....nothing but simple stuff, and the thing really screams to the rev limiter. I've yet to take it in and have it dialed in for my setup. You really should ditch the exhaust setup for something more "proper" (I've never heard of a setup as you describe it, no offense.... but that's a pretty severely boogered engineering concoction,IMO, for such a well engineered bike, check the German forum, good solid sound German engineering and tuning info there) and set the PC back to the base map, change the gearing per general concensus (I like 16/45 and there's more than enough topend), sync the throttle bodies, get a baseline setup based on MZ specifics...not Suzuki specifics. Spend some time on it and you'll be more than content...and will easily outrun a TL1000. The MZ is a great bike with much untaped potential

i hate bikes with modified exhaust systems most of the time they just make more noise and
don't go any faster---
the 1000s will go fast enough to scare the crap out of most people with out any mods
dave
i test rode a bmw at the rally in lima ohio a few years back and it had so much power
i did not want it ..it was scary