MZ/MuZ Riders

Today I lifted the tank for the first time as I wanted to see what was up with my battery.I remember the original owner said it was a new battery.
Turns out it was just a loose ground. Everything should be this easy.
SoI look at the airbox and my first thought was that I've never seen so many screws in an airbox ! I think I counted 15 in all.
I took them out and took a look at the filter and I'm thinking how does this motor suck in air as it looks completely covered.

Then I saw this little slot in the back of the motor to bring in air.I'm use to seeing air forced in the airbox on my other bikes,I was a little shocked to say the least.Where the screws are is the only passage for air to the motor.

So I thought like the other bikes that force the air in I would try to do the same.I transformed this bike with a little air.I took a vacuum hose and routed it out up to the radiator cover.I took it for a short ride and was shocked at the difference I might get a black hose and tiewraps to make it look cleaner but just for a quick test riged this up real quick and it will stay as I noticed a huge difference.

funny i was thinking the same thing, but just removing the cover and doing an alteration.

Iceman dyson special, hope you've patented it

what about making an air scoop further back or on either side of the radiator? that way the hose will be shorter.

tomtom wrote:funny i was thinking the same thing, but just removing the cover and doing an alteration.

Iceman dyson special, hope you've patented it

what about making an air scoop further back or on either side of the radiator? that way the hose will be shorter.

I'm kinda liking the mystery hose,maybe other bikers will think it's supercharged or air feed for an inter-cooler.

I only took it for a short run as I had to get my nephew to his art class but tomorrow will be the real test.I can only imagine if I didn't have the stock pipes and it could get rid of those spent gasses a little faster.
I thought about a scoop like you said but maybe too much air would make it run too lean.Not sure I will have a better idea tomorrow.

John
Unless you can induce a positive pressure in to your extended induction hose (as you may have done already) then all you will have done would be to increase the volume of the Plenum (still air) chamber. Given the complexity of induction volumetrics/aerodynamcs/engine requirements, it will be trial and error or "your guess is as good as mine".

I'm surprised you have'nt drilled some holes in the cover or just removed it (keep the air temp sensor connected to the wire or the engine light will stay on), and done a K&N filter mod. You'll get better results doing all that first as it's still restricted and now is drawing air through a long rippled tube. Drawing/forcing cool air is a good idea (only helpful at higher speeds) but your still not getting everything out of her that you could be.

LWS66 wrote:I'm surprised you have'nt drilled some holes in the cover or just removed it (keep the air temp sensor connected to the wire or the engine light will stay on), and done a K&N filter mod. You'll get better results doing all that first as it's still restricted and now is drawing air through a long rippled tube. Drawing/forcing cool air is a good idea (only helpful at higher speeds) but your still not getting everything out of her that you could be.

Well that hose did work.I have been out on the bike about five times about 1.5 hours each time and the rpm's climb much faster.Tomorrow I'm going to remove the hose and the airbox cover like Lorin said and over the winter do that air filter mod or something very similar.

I want to ride it without the cover for a while and see how that feels.I bet the induction noise will sound nice.I'm also thinking about bumping the tank up 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch with a couple of pieces of rubber on the existing rubber that the tank already sits on just so a little more air can get under the tank.Not much clearance with the tank and bars though.

Anybody have some pictures of the airbox with holes drilled in it that they could post?
On another post I saw someone talking about smoothing out the internals of the air box as well.... any explanation that can be expanded on of what needs/should be done?

Do I need to have any type of retaining clip/ring or something needed to remove the top and run it open?
Sorry for the stupid questions, but I'm generally benefiting from someone elses expertise /pre-made parts and bolting on modified products rather than doing the mods myself.
On my Ducati's I have open air boxes, but there was a billet outer ring/retaining part that attached to the air box to hold the filter in place that came with the kit.... hence the question.

Pictures, pictures.... if I can see it, I grasp it faster.
Thanks!!

If I may, one thing that should be made clear is that there is more than one way to go about helping the engine breath better by doing mods to the air box. I've done mods to mine with really no template, back in 05 right after I got it, as I could'nt find anything on the German sites at the time (other than the available MZ Faber cover, and some comments on just removing the cover) I recall the US tech saying they got an additional 8HP just by removing the cover. I tried that, but did'nt care for the intake noise. So I just used what I had in my tool box (a large drill boring bit/saw) and drilled two holes where I thought would be the best place for them AND be able to improve airflow, yet keep things quiet. I also removed much of the vanes on the backside of the cover, and smoothed out some of the sharp edges...mostly cause I did'nt have anything else to do to it and just too much free time!! I have no hp figures for what I've done, but it's certainly better than what it was, and I don't have to worry about any water getting into the airbox without the cover if it rains (still doubt it would have, who knows...I dont ride in the rain much)
The simplest thing is to just remove the cover. Or you can drill 1 big hole or multiple holes. Lots of areas to put them. You could also cut off the bottom section so that you have a big rectanglular opening...everything is very evident when you look at it. The main thing is to enlarge the intake opening somehow if you want to keep the cover on.

[quote="scott964"]Anybody have some pictures of the airbox with holes drilled in it that they could post?
On another post I saw someone talking about smoothing out the internals of the air box as well.... any explanation that can be expanded on of what needs/should be done?

Do I need to have any type of retaining clip/ring or something needed to remove the top and run it open?
Sorry for the stupid questions, but I'm generally benefiting from someone elses expertise /pre-made parts and bolting on modified products rather than doing the mods myself.
On my Ducati's I have open air boxes, but there was a billet outer ring/retaining part that attached to the air box to hold the filter in place that came with the kit.... hence the question.

Pictures, pictures.... if I can see it, I grasp it faster.
Thanks!![/quote]

I've got some pictures of what I've done that I'll post when I find them. You can just remove the cover and put the screws back in to secure the filter, thats it! But make sure you remove the sensor from the cover and keep it connected to the wiring, or else the engine light will stay on. You can secure the sensor up near the filter somehow, duct tape or silicone? so it gets an accurate temp reading.

tomtom wrote:funny i was thinking the same thing, but just removing the cover and doing an alteration.

Iceman dyson special, hope you've patented it

what about making an air scoop further back or on either side of the radiator? that way the hose will be shorter.

I took the MZ out this afternoon for the third time with a new set up.

I went with what Lorin said and just removed the cover and also from between the front folks used two small pieces of that tubing to force the cool air into the underside of the tank as the fit with the tank is very tight.

I don't find it too loud but I also listen to music whenever I ride.I do feel for myself this is where I will leave it as I'm a lot happier and you don't see the tubes for the cool intake air,<I used two> I know it's trial and error and like I said for myself after riding 2,500 miles with it stock well this is much better all around for me.
It's a lot like I had only better with a nice intake noise between your legs.Bottom line is with the oem cover over the airbox just seems to stifle what the motor has to offer.

John
Good luck with any improvements resulting from your works to the induction However you still have that politically correct crap stuck in the exhaust.

boilermaker wrote:John
Good luck with any improvements resulting from your works to the induction However you still have that politically correct crap stuck in the exhaust.

I have to re-read your cat thread and make some inexpensive adjustments...

now where's that dyson. I could have sworn the tube stretched to the top of the stairssssssssssssssssssssss last week.

tomtom wrote:now where's that dyson. I could have sworn the tube stretched to the top of the stairssssssssssssssssssssss last week.

Tomtom,there still on but much shorter and invisible now.They sit high up on between the forks.I'll get a picture of the new setup and one of the coils soon.

next project should be to make a mould of the front fairing as i'm sure they cost a fortune, the screen alone is about £80 sterling. It's easier to make copies before they get smashed or damaged.