MZ/MuZ Riders

To all
Changed the front brake pads today, usual small job, used every tool in the box+copious quantities of GT85 and Copper grease. This is the first pad change from new at 30,00 m (I am not very hard on brakes, a bit of anticipation is cheaper) the central locating pin in the caliper unit which on a Brembo unit is a push out item, is threaded in on the Nissin unit, and yes you guessed it , it was siezed. Never mind, drilled it out, made up new pin in the lathe from unobtainium and re-fitted using lots of Copper grease. Oh, by the way, its easier to remove and re-fit calipers with the wheel out (slip them back on to the disc rotors as you re-fit the wheel).

a lathe always helps a lot with Unobtainium motorcycle parts
my lathe is never for sale unless the new better one is set up and ready to use

dave

I removed the calipers to take off my front wheel today and ran into this problem.The axle bolt is threaded on the left hand side.How do you hold that ?

Pinch bolts loose and the axle bolt just spins when I turn the right side nut. see picture,thanks,john I can't read German and can't locate my CD...HELP

keep the left hand pinch bolts tight until you undo the nut on the right as its just a sleeve on the left side.


from manual

Lift up and support the front part of the motorcycle to allow
front wheel removal (using, e.g., an assembly stand).
The front wheel must be free of load!
2. Loosen the locking screws (1) on right.
3. Loosen the right-hand axle.
4. Loosen the locking screws (1) on left.
5. Pull out the axle to the right, holding the wheel
in its installed position.
6. Remove the axle sleeve (2) on the left side.
7. Remove the front wheel.
Carefully guide the brake disks out of the brake calipers.
Installation
1. Place the front wheel between the fork spars, approximately
in its installation position.
Carefully introduce the brake disks into the brake calipers.
2. Grease the axle bushing, and insert it from the left into the lefthand
fork leg.
3. Tighten the locking screws on left.
4. Grease the axle, and insert it from the right into the righthand
fork spar.
5. Tighten the axle.
6. Tighten the locking screws on right.
7. When the parking brake is pulled, push the telescopic fork
the whole way through several times.
8. Tighten all locking screws.
DANGER!
The vehicle may fall over.
Properly secure the vehicle on the installation stand
before beginning work.
When using tension belts, be careful not to damage
the paint.






Tightening torque:
Axle: 80+10 Nm
Locking screws: 15+5 Nm

Hi,
Picture of page from manual




David.

Tom,David,
Thanks a lot that helps me out.I did re-tighten the pinch bolts on the left figuring it would hold it .But when it wouldn't budge I stopped and looked at my German book.
I took out my Honda 919 the sun was out and it was about 65 degrees 18C and going to be warmer the next couple of days,so this new front tire might have to wait a couple of days.
I want you to know I just wanted to break the bolts loose and then lift the wheel... I did check my toolkit <MZ> and saw the special tool for the rear wheel.Dam you would be screwed without that which I need to use to adjust my chain also.

Tom I sent you the pictures of the windscreen.

boilermaker wrote:To all
Changed the front brake pads today, usual small job, used every tool in the box+copious quantities of GT85 and Copper grease. This is the first pad change from new at 30,00 m (I am not very hard on brakes, a bit of anticipation is cheaper) the central locating pin in the caliper unit which on a Brembo unit is a push out item, is threaded in on the Nissin unit, and yes you guessed it , it was siezed. Never mind, drilled it out, made up new pin in the lathe from unobtainium and re-fitted using lots of Copper grease. Oh, by the way, its easier to remove and re-fit calipers with the wheel out (slip them back on to the disc rotors as you re-fit the wheel).

I hit those caliper inner bolt/torx heads with wd=40 after I read your post.Thanks for alerting me .Fingers crossed it penetrates in for when I have to take them apart.

That's a good tip about putting them on and fitting the wheel as one.I had to move the wheel around to get them off.

Iceman/John
What the manual page does not make clear is that when you remove the front spindle/axle the fork legs can compress independently and the bike falls off the stand! I had to lift a friends bike off him when this happened. If you have a rear end paddock stand then put the bike up on this before using the front wheel stand. I think the reason that MZ do not emphasize this point strongly in the manual is because the factory type stand actually locates in the base of the headlock tube thus lifting the machine from the correct place. This situation actually reminds me of an incident years ago when I was asked to supervise the recovery of a downed helicopter on an offshore construction barge. I arrived on site to find the rigging crew ready to lift the aircraft using webbing straps slung under the fuselage. It had not occured to them that the threaded hole in the upper face of the rotor head was for an eyebolt carried in the aircraft toolkit, thus the aircraft was to be lifted at the point at which it usually lifted itself in operation!