shock removal

[handsomejackuk]

Hi

I attempted to remove rear shock for overall and found that, i was unable to get to top nut of shock absorber without removal of air box, and seat /subframe, anyone got any tips on easier removal of rear shock.

When i loosened the bottom mounts and linkage, the top mount felt very loose, as though there was a lot of wear in the top bush, Is this normal ?

The movement was side to side and rotational. any ideas ?

Also, the part of the linkage that is attached to the swing arm. (The Aluminium casting) I could not remove the shaft going through, I Loosened both nuts but the shaft would not budge.

Is this shaft pressed in ?

I would like to remove this part to clean, and service the needle roller bearings, as I think last time i removed, i lost a couple of roller bearings.

The shock absorber looks in good order, but i would like to know if the top mount bushes should be this loose. ??

Bike has covered approx 14,000 miles....


Thanks Alun

[CasterTroy]

Ironically I removed the shock on my baggy yesterday to install the new heavier rear spring from a 690 adventure (hasn't stopped raining to TEST this setup)

I used a 17 mm open end box wrench on the nut turned perpendicular to the nut.

I too contemplated the removal of the air box but after I removed the rear master cylinder and reservoir so I could get to the allen bolt I was fine…..I’ll admit, it was a bear, but I held my mouth JUST right and the weak grip that box wrench had on the nut was just enough to allow me to break it loose.

After that came loose I removed the nut holding the bottom bolt on the shock, then took the dog bones loose by removing the bolt holding them to the large aluminum linkage.

Tip: You have to lower the bike (or raise the rear tire) to where the rear tire is almost touching the fender before the shock can be removed. The swingarm has to be all but level with the ground for the opening to get big enough for the spring body to go thru

[handsomejackuk]

hi,

just came back in from the shed, and removed the nut off the end using similar setup openend of a 17mm spanner,and a ground off allen key ground down to 6mm hex, with the 6mm hex but into a impact socket 6mm hex adaptor. held the spanner sideways as you said.

I will remove the shock completely for investigation, and a good clean up tomorrow when i can push bike out of my shed and have more room to work around bike.

I removed the dogbones, and replaced all the nylocs last night with sheradised nyloc bolts, and regreased linkage, but will have to remove that again tomorrow.

Thanks for the advice on getting the shock through by raising the rear wheel up to fender (mudguard). will give it a go tomorrow.

Did u notice that there was a lot of movement on top mount of shock ? in a circular motion (if you know what i mean ) ?


Also did u remove the aluminium part attached to swingarm at all ?

I know there is no need, but was going to remove that as part of job anyway to give the casting a real good clean and insopect the roller bearings.

Thanks Alun

[CasterTroy]

Yes I DID notice it...but only upon reassembly

See I removed the top bolt first then went to the bottom….but in reassembly I bolted the top first ….and noticed that even after torquing down the top bolt to as much as a sideways spanner could go hehehe it spun around about 5 degrees.

It confused me, but I put it back exactly like I took it apart…so thought nothing of it.

No I didn’t remove the aluminum block….I tried not to disturb any more than I had too in fear of screwing something up or finding out I finished with “spare” parts

[handsomejackuk]

Hi,

JOb done, removed shock, and give a real good clean. Regreased all moving parts, Reassembled as per your advice, I had an old Paint Can in my shed that i used to put the rear wheel on all to jack it up all the way. Shock came out lovely. The side ways movement in the shocker seems to me to be normal as there is a ball arrangemet in the top mount.

Thanks for advice

Alun...