Skorpion Airbox

Black Panther/Street Moto, Baghira, Enduro, Mastiff, Skorpion Traveller and Tour.

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Skorpion Airbox

Postby Old Dog » Fri Feb 18, 2011 4:52 am

I suspect this has been asked before but here goes.
Is there any benefit to be accrued by removing the top scoop thing off the airbox? If there is will it require re-jetting?

Thanks very much
All the best

Old Dog

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Re: Scorpion Air Box

Postby Skorpion » Fri Feb 18, 2011 5:17 am

Hi Old Dog,

The information below was gleaned from the now defunct importers of MZs in the USA,
although not answering your question directly is interesting.

My opinion,
Louder intake roar, and in the UK rain water running down the tank into the airbox, so maybe not a good idea.


http://web.archive.org/web/200302050145 ... RBMODS.HTM


Welcome to Motorrad of North America

Re: Stock Carb Mods
From: DAMIEN ESMOND, TECH DEPT
Date: 06 Feb 2001
Time: 10:00:08



Comments
Hey there, You sound a bit confused about carb modifications. The mixture screw gets backed out(holeshot performance recommends 7 1/2 turns out from lightly seated),the main jet isn't adjustable, you replace the 130 main jet from the left side (as you're sitting on the bike)carb with a Kehin 135 and screw it in all the way tight. The midrange jet needles (both sides) get raised 1 notch, (this means the cirlip goes in the second groove from the pointy end) cut 2 coils from the constant velocity slide spring (right side)and re-install cut side down. Be sure to line up the diapraghm correctly, there is a little tab on the edge of it that fits into a recess cast into the top of the carb. At low altitude (below 5000 feet), you can drill the right carb's main jet with a #51 drill bit, just twist it between your fingers, no need for the drill press and re-install with a new P/N 90-20.142 crush washer. For around town riding this last step isn't really nessesary, you'll foul plugs more often and you should definatly keep a stock main jet (P/N 90-20.146) handy if you plan on doing any riding up in the mountains. The sync screw on top of the carb bank controlls the point after the low speed carb carb starts opening that the high speed carb begins to open, crank it in a turn or two so that as you twist the grip, you'll feel the freeplay take up, then the low speed carb start to open, then the added resistance of the high speed carb opening. You want the high speed carb to open just after the low speed opens, without as much of a delay as with the stock setting. This obviously needs to be set with the carbs reinstalled on the bike before the gas tank is replaced. Lastly, if yor bike is a Skorpion (Sport, Traveller, Replica Etc., not a Mastiff, Black Panther Etc.) Remove the black rubber snorkel from the top of the airbox. Of course, all these modifications are recommended for closed course, racetrack use only. Wink. Damien (888)225-6680




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Re: Skorpion Airbox

Postby Bill Jurgenson » Fri Feb 18, 2011 12:03 pm

no rejetting necessary.
most over here remove the snorkel. You loose a tinybit of top end, but the get an improvement in mid range.
I never ever had any rain water running into any of my three Skorpions, but even it if did, it couldn't run into the carb. The water would just run into the back part behind the air filter.
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