Skorpion 660 Lightweight Build

[Puffs]

That looks suitable & beautifully machined!

You probably said so somewhere, is it stainless steel or alu? Regardless, me being old school, I'd put a file to it and thin the walls down, from the outside.

[jpmsteadi]

its 6063 alu. I am tempted to take as much off as I can with a file or grinder, but we will see. I am a bit concerned that it will just end up looking terrible. but perhaps it really doesn't matter

[jpmsteadi]

so I got the intake finished for now! came out pretty nice. I took off some more material to lighten it up as much as possible and ground down the inside more. I could probably go farther, but for right now I am happy to slap it on and see how it works.


I cut a gasket from gasket material and sanded the mating surface of the manifold on a surface plate, hopefully getting it really nice and flat to have a good seal.

The carb fits well, the fuel tank just barely fits, but it does (and this carb body isn't the one that will be on there eventually, the other carb body isn't quite as tall.

[jpmsteadi]

and the surface plate for flatness:

[breakwellmz]

Lookin good!

[Puffs]

Yes it does!

Interesting bit of work you're doing, and well too. (But watch out with planing on sandpaper.)

[jpmsteadi]

whats the issue with using the sand paper as a way to ensure flatness? This is my first time doing it for something like this.

[jpmsteadi]

I have been busy the last couple of days. This past weekend I bought another bike, a buell Ulysses 1200 so I've been doing some stuff with that, tire changes and the like.

But, I have gotten some more work done on the MZ. Got the R6 triple tree drilled and tapped for the handlebar risers. the existing 3d printed key mount fit too. Happy happenstance.

[jpmsteadi]

Also stripped the old tire off the R6 rim and swapped the new tires I put on the MZ rim over. I have decided to start with a single rotor and see how it feels. I am not going to delete anything I would need to go dual disc yet. The weight savings of the R6 wheel are pretty great. This is without the tire on them for each.

[Puffs]

As you asked, using sandpaper has risks. For instance, even if you fixate it perfectly at the sides, sandpaper will always stretch a bit, which will cause the side you're sliding towards to come up a bit, thus rounding the edges of the thing you're planing. The conventional method is on a (glass) plate, using rubbing paste & paraffin/oil, or Zip as used for valves & seats, in figure '8' movements. At least if done manually.

But for a manifold like this, it'll be fine, certainly with a bit of sealant.

Continuing to watch with great interest...

[jpmsteadi]

Thanks for explaining! that makes perfect sense. I can see that on the part. At least with this one I think the mating surfaces around the intake ports is flat enough for the gasket to take up the space. In the future I will look at other methods.

[phoenix76rb]

Wow! Great thread; just caught up on the whole thing. You are doing things that amaze me. Looking forward to more!

[jpmsteadi]

Thanks Tim! Hopefully I will have the new forks on and the bike back on the road in another couple of days or so!

I 3d printed some drivers for the steering stem bearings:

They worked, but certainty were "torque to yield" style:

[jpmsteadi]

Turning some spacers today. Started with replacing the 3d printed rear upper shock mount spacers out of some 6061 aluminum. Still very light, but no longer quite a limited lifespan.

Before (with one spacer in):

The spacers:

With spacers installed:

[jpmsteadi]

First test fit of the (not rebuild yet as I am still waiting on parts) R6 forks. It is gonna work!!

I had to alter the steering stop on the frame and I took that opportunity to take off all the little steel bits that I am not going to use. I didn't have a matching color paint, but just did a quick spray to keep rust off.