MZ/MuZ Riders

I've just had the wheels re-built on my 98 Mastiff, and now they don't appear to sit centrally, especially the back wheel which seems to be too far over to the left
Would someone be kind enough to measure the distance from the outer disc face to the edge of the rim on their front and back wheels (Place a straight edge across the disc and meaure in to the widest part of the rim). My wheels are the standard Mastiff/ Baghira SM 17 inch spoked with Behr rims.
Thanks in anticipation

I think there was a post a while ago saying that there is problem when wheels are rebuilt, the Behr rims don't hold there shape to well? Bet some one will be along soon with more info.

the rear is spaced OUT 2mm from the rotor. ( straight edge across the rim, 2mm gap to the rotor)

the front is spaced IN 5mm from the rotor (straight edge across the rotor, 5mm gap to the wheel)

hope that helps...

Thanks Phlat, I'll measure them later today.

Right guys, I've been out with my straight edge and vernier and this is what I found:

Back wheel - distance from outer disc face to widest part of rim = 2.6mm IN from the disc. This gives a difference of 4.6mm from phlat's bike.
(The gap between the inside edge of the swingarm and the widest part of the rim is 34.4mm on the right and 29.1mm on the left).

Front wheel - distance from outer disc face to widest part of rim = 2.5mm OUT from the disc. This gives a difference of 2.5mm from phlat's bike.

Should I be worried about differences of this size, or should I just get on the thing and ride it instead of measuring my wheels

I would correct it if I was you. just take your time, and loosen all spokes 1/2 turn on the side that is too far over, and tighten the others. continue to do this until your spacing is correct. before you start, tap the spokes with a screw driver, and get a feel for the tension (like the string of a guitar, tighter makes higher pitch). if you have some that are totaly dull, then get the tension correct before you start to move the wheel.

if they end up slightly out of true when done, you can easily true them with patience, and an easy to fab tool. if you get to that part, I will help you through it

Thank you for the advice mate, and for the kind offer to help me help me sort this out - it's is much appreciated!
I think I will contact my local bike shop to see how much they will charge to do the job before I think about trying to do this myself - I've trued a few bicycle wheels in my time, but they didn't have to support a 190kg bike with my fat ass sat on it

Fil wrote:I think I will contact my local bike shop to see how much they will charge to do the job before I think about trying to do this myself - I've trued a few bicycle wheels in my time, but they didn't have to support a 190kg bike with my fat ass sat on it

You need a trueing stand, you need to take the wheels off. It's the only way to get it right. It will affect your handling.

Don't take it to the local shop unless you know they have someone who knows how to true wheels -- otherwise you'll get a half-assed job, no better than you could do yourself. You've done it with bicycles, so you can do it. But you need a trueing stand. If you want to make one, I've got some diagrams and pictures somewhere.

Just be glad it's not a GS. There aren't many people in the world who can do them. (I mean BMW R100GS. Tubeless. The spoke pattern is...unusual - it's like back-to-front.)

............PS: It looks like I was thinking of a balancing stand. Although I suppose it would still be easier to true the wheels on one.