MZ/MuZ Riders

Hi guys,

Could someone tell me what the valve clearances are for the Baggy/ Mastiff, and what size the nuts & screws are on the adjusters (so I can make sure I have the correct tools before I pull it to bits!!)

Fil wrote:Hi guys,
Could someone tell me what the valve clearances are for the Baggy/ Mastiff, and what size the nuts & screws are on the adjusters (so I can make sure I have the correct tools before I pull it to bits!!)

Valve clearance (cold) :
intake: 0.10 - 0.15 mm (0.004” - 0.006”)
exhaust: 0.15 – 0.20 mm (0.006” – 0.008”)

i don't know what size the nuts and screws are. i couldn't find anything about XTZ 660 valve clearance adjustment when i searched a while ago. there are some nice tools for it, including those bent-over feeler gauges but they're all in inch sizes / thou, and i don't like that. the specs are in precise mm, it's a Japanese engine, and i want to use metric feeler gauges.

anyway, you should have the tools, already. like 1/4" drive (jees, inches again) 6mm, 8mm, 10mm sockets and spanners.
let us know.

Right, having had a go at doing the job, I thought I'd add comments from my experiance of doing this job earlier today for the benefit of anyone having a go at adjusting the valve clearances (altough if you're not sure what you're doing, leave it to your bike shop!!)

The lock nuts are 10mm, and the screws have a very small, square head on them which requires a special valve adjuster spanner to do correctly. I would definately recommend getting hold of one of these spanners before attempting this job! A pair of pliers just isn't going to do it I'm affraid!
To get at the exhaust valves on a Baggy/ Mastiff (don't know about the Scorpion/ Traveller as I don't have one!) you need to undo the radiators on both sides (no need to disconnect any pipes) and move them back as far as you can to get at the two round covers over the adjusters.
These you can remove with a 17mm ring spanner.
To get at the cover over the inlet valve adjusters, you need to work around the water pipe that runs over that part of the engine. I found I could move the pipe far enough out of the way after disconnecting the throttle cables. The inlet valve adjuster access cover is held in place by 4 bolts (using a 5mm allen key).
Also - be careful when removing the large circular cover in the centre of the left hand engine case to get at the 19mm nut on the alternator end of the crank (to allow you to rotate the engine to TDC) as it is only made of plastic.
And don't forget to remove the spark plug so that you don't have to fight the compression in the cylinder at TDC!!

All the torque settings etc are in the SZR manual which you can download from a link somewhere on here...

Hope someone finds this useful!

http://www.mzriders.com/viewtopic.php?t=1210

engine manual link
listed in one of the posts under this heading

Thanks David - that's the one! I downloaded it a little while back and couldn't remember where I'd seen it...

Fil wrote:The lock nuts are 10mm, and the screws have a very small, square head on them which requires a special valve adjuster spanner to do correctly. I would definately recommend getting hold of one of these spanners before attempting this job! A pair of pliers just isn't going to do it I'm affraid!

Strange..the only place I've ever seen them is on the internet, but so many cars use them, I don't know why you don't see them in ordinary car parts shops.

Fil wrote:To get at the cover over the inlet valve adjusters, you need to work around the water pipe that runs over that part of the engine. I found I could move the pipe far enough out of the way after disconnecting the throttle cables.

Sounds like it wouldn't be easy to get the feeler gauge and spanner in there with the water pipe in the way.

Fil wrote:Also - be careful when removing the large circular cover in the centre of the left hand engine case to get at the 19mm nut on the alternator end of the crank (to allow you to rotate the engine to TDC) as it is only made of plastic.

I was looking at that, wondering what I'd use to unscrew it. ...Maybe a ruler?

To undo the plastic cirular plug, I modified a wood chiesel, making sure than all sharp edges were removed. Works well.

Keith

cat wrote:
Sounds like it wouldn't be easy to get the feeler gauge and spanner in there with the water pipe in the way.

It's a bit awkward, but not too bad with the right tools!
It wouldn't take much effort to drain the coolant and remove the water pipe from the head (just above the carb inlet stub on the right hand side) so you can move the water pipe out of the way.

I'll be investing in a set of angled feeler gauges too when I can find some!

Fil wrote:

cat wrote:
Sounds like it wouldn't be easy to get the feeler gauge and spanner in there with the water pipe in the way.

It's a bit awkward, but not too bad with the right tools!
It wouldn't take much effort to drain the coolant and remove the water pipe from the head (just above the carb inlet stub on the right hand side) so you can move the water pipe out of the way.

I'll be investing in a set of angled feeler gauges too when I can find some!

Always right tools. This time around I've got money - or at least compared to when I was 20 - so I go buy the tools. All I need now is a torque wrench that does 5-20Nm - and the valve clearance tools.

I think I've got pictures...there are some Wurth feeler gauges for valve clearance but they're quite hard to get, and about $27 for set of 2.) Then there are the Motion Pro ones - they're available all over the place - the web, I mean. They're not the old usual angled feeler gauges - which I haven't seen for years - since everything started coming from China, probably.

The Motion Pro ones ($4.35-4.75) (see picture below):
TAPPET FEELER GAUGE .002-.003
TAPPET FEELER GAUGE .004-.005
TAPPET FEELER GAUGE .006-.008

Also picture of Motion Pro tappet tool set; it looks good.

Fil wrote:I'll be investing in a set of angled feeler gauges too when I can find some!

Here you go:

http://www.abbeypowertools.co.uk/subpro ... 01413.aspx

...and kelkoo lists several:

http://shopping.kelkoo.co.uk/b/a/ss_feeler_gauge.html

Some of the ones there look better than others.
Now I just have to check if they do foreign orders.

When I last checked my valve clearances I used a set of tappet adjusters like the ones in your picture. They are very easy to use. As for feeler gauges I bend some normal ones to fit.

Keith

keithcross wrote:When I last checked my valve clearances I used a set of tappet adjusters like the ones in your picture. They are very easy to use. As for feeler gauges I bend some normal ones to fit.
Keith

Yes, that's what we've always done with feeler gauges. The tappet adjuster tools, the only way I'm going to get any is to order them from the USA and they're heavy, so expensive. Maybe I can get just the square type.

I got mine from a company in teh UK called M&P a couple of years ago. Quite cheap if I recall. Dont know about P&P to where you live though

Keith

keithcross wrote:I got mine from a company in teh UK called M&P a couple of years ago. Quite cheap if I recall.
Keith

Those are the ones I've got. Motion Pro, £25 plus P&P from M&P.

Fil wrote:

keithcross wrote:I got mine from a company in teh UK called M&P a couple of years ago. Quite cheap if I recall.
Keith

Those are the ones I've got. Motion Pro, £25 plus P&P from M&P.

Only about 10% less from USA, but shipping cost higher so about the same.
However, pitposse has copies. Which of these is the right one?

>>>>
Posse Tappet Tool Set 9mm & 10mm
9mm & 10mm SOCKETS, 4mm SQUARE ADJUSTER, SINGLE CYLINDER AND MULTI-CYLINDERS.
MOST HONDA/YAMAHA.

Posse Tappet Tool Set 8mm & 10mm
8mm & 10mm ROCKER ADJUSTMENT NUTS SLOTTED AND 3mm SQUARE ADJUSTER, SCREW DRIVER & 3mm SQUARE-TIP APPLICATIONS.
KAWASAKI MODELS NINJA 600, 750, 900, 1000.
>>>>