MZ/MuZ Riders

i have 5000km on my 05 bagirah...all stock except for an M4 Pipe..., took it to the dealer for an oil change today, and the guy said he adjusted my carb a little, said it was stuttering and barely ideling(i thought it was fine and never died on me at idle when not cold). so now it backfires like crazy, id di a little bit before but now its really bad. he said when he returns it to where is was it backfires worse...hmmm....he said i should adjust my valves now anyways and it might be a tight valve.
my question is...when should there be my first valve adjustment?? and if now my bike is idleing to fast (from his changes) will that cause all the backfireing?
thanks guys..feel like im getting scamed..and the damn oil change was $90?? that normal???..he said the oil is 12 a quart..3 quesrts and 45 labor...my mouth almost hit the ground.

valve adjustment is due at 6,000 miles. I checked mine at 6k, they were fine. I checked them at 12,500 miles, they were fine.

the high idle speed can cause popping on decel. I would think that there is a small vacuum leak thay maybe got created during the service, and the tech adjusted the idle mixture screw to compensate. you say it idled fine before the oil service?

why not do your own oil change? the parts are $25-40 depending on oil you use, and the proceedure is very simple.

a tight valve may cause idle quality problems, but these heads are not like the motocross bikes. They don't have Ti valves that wear and pull the valve head into the seat. I would bet most guys on here have not had to make adjustments to the valves during the check.

yeah it idled fine before the oil change...it was definetly a low idle, but smooth after a few minutes of running in the morning...now it idles very high and backfires, he said when he returned the mixture screw to where it was that it backfired worse...thats what doesnt make sence...its definetly worse now
the backfires r on decel, and sometimes when i let off the throttle to shift

a bike can be cheap to run but not if you have the shops work on it
the only thing i have done at a shop is new tire mounting and
only on the tubless alloy rims because there so hard to do by hand

Publish the dealer's name and stay away. Next time do your own oil change.

Try adjusting your idle, and if you can't get it right - get the backfiring to stop, you'll have to check for a leak like phlat says. Where, I don't know ...I can only think check the carb-to-head tubes.

f****** dealers.

could that leak have happend when he did the oil change?? because all he did he said was oil change and adjusted my carborator. he says returning the idle to where it was makes it backfire more..says i should have rejeted for the m4 pipe, but i was told it wasnt needed as its a bolt on pipe.

Sorry to hear you are having problems! I have a M4 exhaust on my 05 bp and it required NO jetting but i have been kicking the idea around just to see if there is a noticable difference. Sounds like the mechanic wants you to be a repeat customer! Good Luck! B

Blathian wrote:could that leak have happend when he did the oil change??

no.

Blathian wrote:because all he did he said was oil change and adjusted my carborator. he says returning the idle to where it was makes it backfire more..says i should have rejeted for the m4 pipe, but i was told it wasnt needed as its a bolt on pipe.

it didn't do it before you took it to him. all he did was change the oil and adjust the carburetor.
why did he adjust the carb?
putting it back to how it was makes it backfire more. ...? what, are there demons in his workshop or something. only you can say if it backfires more or less than it did before you took it in, and you say there's a problem that wasn't there before.

what does not make sense is him saying it is worse when it is adjusted to how it was before. obviously, he cannot put it back to how it was.

he only thing to do is keep adjusting the pilot jet screw until it's as good as you can get. you'll have read the thread.. Fil asking about carb settings for the Dynojet kit ... find those articles on advrider about adjusting the BST carb on the KTM LC4 ...the principles are the same. it's not easy if you're not practiced at it. it'll take perseverance.

Blathian wrote:could that leak have happend when he did the oil change??

no.

Blathian wrote:because all he did he said was oil change and adjusted my carborator. he says returning the idle to where it was makes it backfire more..says i should have rejeted for the m4 pipe, but i was told it wasnt needed as its a bolt on pipe.

it didn't do it before you took it to him. all he did was change the oil and adjust the carburetor.
why did he adjust the carb?
putting it back to how it was makes it backfire more. ...? what, are there demons in his workshop or something. only you can say if it backfires more or less than it did before you took it in, and you say there's a problem that wasn't there before.

what does not make sense is him saying it is worse when it is adjusted to how it was before. obviously, he cannot put it back to how it was.

he only thing to do is keep adjusting the pilot jet screw until it's as good as you can get. you'll have read the thread.. Fil asking about carb settings for the Dynojet kit ... find those articles on advrider about adjusting the BST carb on the KTM LC4 ...the principles are the same. it's not easy if you're not practiced at it. it'll take perseverance.

thanks for the information, yeah it definetly backifires more now, and idles much faster, its always had a low grumble before now its definetly different...what about valve adjustment?? he said its good to do one at this stage of the motor,5000km, and that a tight valve could cause the excesive backfiring.
i wish wasnt so clueless about motors : ([/code]

phlat65 wrote:why not do your own oil change? the parts are $25-40 depending on oil you use, and the proceedure is very simple.

I went to a Yamaha dealer and I purchased 4 litres of Shell Advance Ultra 10W-40 4-stroke motorcycle oil. I have not yet changed the oil, and I hope they sold me the correct one. They also told me that they always replace a part (which I do not remember what it was), and that was not the oil filter they talked about. Any idea what the spare part they were talking about?

Perhaps a crush washer?

A crush washer for the drain bolt?

Blathian wrote:thanks for the information, yeah it definetly backifires more now, and idles much faster, its always had a low grumble before now its definetly different...what about valve adjustment?? he said its good to do one at this stage of the motor,5000km, and that a tight valve could cause the excesive backfiring.

Keep it away from him.
Leave the valves. Sort out the carb that he 'unsorted.'

i just looked in the Manual that came with my bike, and it says to "check valve clearance and adjust if necessary" after 1st 1000km. Guess im getting mixed advice, when did you guys who were the 1st owners of a NEW baggy check the valves? Phat said he didnt check his till 6000miles?? and they were fine, and i know he knows alot about these bikes.
the dealer is still convinced that i may have a tight valve that is causing my backfireing ect. I know you guys said not to go back to the dealer but its the only one i know around where i live. Still seems weird i wasnt having these issues till after he adjusted my carb, well its always backfired some when i put the M4 pipe on, but its is much much worse, and has even been dieing on me at stoplights, and kinda makes a "pffttt" sound when it dies.
thanks guys