MZ/MuZ Riders

how to change the oil in a baghira

okay, i just got one, noob to this bike..

now how do i change the oil. the only info i have found is in pieces or in german.

can anyone give me a complete rundown or point me to one.

where is the drain plug on it, is it the one at the base of the tube under the engine with the large bolt and line leading off of it.

okay, i found the info on the oil filter and oil type and capacity and how to change the filter.

the info i found for the oil draining was for teh szr660, yamers, it had some slightly different info on the drainage..

if someone could clue me in on this, and the amount of oil to add when you first refil it, prior to engine running.

capacity is 3.3 litres, takes 3 litres with filter change, 2.9 without. uses 15/50 or 20/40 summer and winter 10/30.. though i would use 10/40 instead since in a more temperate area.

Here you go right from the manual ...

Total quantity of oil in the system 3.3l <2.90 imp qt..UK in the USA 3.49 qts

oil drain plug ,1. is 17 mm or 30Nm

coarse filter screw 3, 22 mm or 30 Nm

oil filter vent screw 6 , 8mm or 5Nm

Hope this helps,took a couple of days to locate 660 E Baghira book

Thanks iceman... just what I needed too wish I could get my hands on a manual like that! Gots all the pdf's with part numbers etc but nothing to say how to do the basic maintanance tasks.

i wish I had a basic owners manual as well, mine didnt come with any. since I have a raptor atv the general draining procedure is the same, so I just muddled thru it.

thank you for posting that... it fills in the gaps from the yamaha szr manual.

things i noticed.

you know, for looking at that and the way they wrote it, they really want you to go to a dealer to have it done.. it is almost intimidating with all the warnings..

things i noticed... step 1, when you unscrew the drain plug.. there is alum gaskit there, it is the same as for the 95 xt600. on the parts diagram for the mz660, it does not show any rubber seals. the o rings are also the same as for the xt600.

step 2. some people only do this step and do not drain by the plug or the course filter plug. you cannot get every drop out this way, but you cannot get every drop out anyway. i think they do this to get the maximum oil change intervals out of it. thing to note here i am told is to take care in making sure when you put the screw back in, you do not strip them and cross thread.. hand tighten first to make sure the threading is correct.

step 3. the course filter plug.. on my ducati, it calls to do this and check/clean the screen every 12000 miles. i did not see a mention of examining or cleaning the screen here. i think you could skip this step and do it every 12000 miles as well and to get every last drop out pour some new oil in the resevoir and let the flush out the old.. this way you would only have to do step 1. .3 liters of oil will remain in the engine no matter what. it also does not mention that the screen is semi-fragile and the two seals and line or soft, and to be very careful not to overtighten.. these are things a person told me about it.

what do you think of my suggestions on making it an easier process. i just got one, the person who had it previous did not ride it for 2 years.. so the oil is 2 years old.. and only has 2k miles on it... he got married... if marriage means giving up something you love.. eek. anyway.. how bad do you think my oil is.. i want to ride it, but am waiting.. i have a friend with a garage to change the oil next week.. but am getting impatient.

I have to say that, although the Baggy does have the most complex oil change procedure known to man, it's really not that bad. There are a lot of steps, but they don't take that much longer than the typical oil change. All of the screws are easily accessible and close together. If you have a wide enough drain pan (my wife still hasn't noticed the missing dishpan from our kitchen), they can all drain pretty much simultaneously, and you're not wasting a lot of time.

My biggest complaint is that there doesn't seem to be a rubber oil seal on the main drain plug like the manual says (at least there wasn't on my bike). The parts list doesn't show a rubber seal there either. Otherwise, now that I've done it a few times, it goes fairly quickly and smoothly.

That said, if you're primarily concerned with being able to do an oil change on your bike in 30 minutes or less, then I can see where you'd be frustrated by the Baggy. However, I don't have that problem. In my years as an amateur motorcycle mechanic, I've made every mistake you can possibly imagine during every mechanical procedure performed on my bike, no matter how simple or complicated. Just with regard to oil changes, I can't recall the number of times fresh oil has come puring out of my motor because I forgot to replace or didn't sufficiently tighten a bolt or seal.

Accidentally leave the old oil filter seal on and install the new filter w/seal over it? Been there.

Forget to replace the drain plug before pouring fresh oil into the motor? Done that.

So, I don't mind that extra 15 minutes or so that the Baggy oil change procedure takes. I'm going to move slowly and triple-check every step anyway. I just count on an hour to do the oil change, and if it takes me less, I get suspicious.

I simply cannot be trusted.

changing oil on any dry sump engine is more work - or at least more steps - than a wet sump.
That said, you only have to take out the drain plug once in a blue moon if you use good quality oil and don't mix types. All that is in there to access is the screen and that should have to catch much of anything. Mine is always clean even tho I don't pull it unless I have to remove the engine.
You only have to remove the engine drain plug and the oil pipe itself to drain the thing and of course the aluminum washer and the o-ring are the same as on the xt or the xtz or the szr or... It's a Yamaha after all.
Forget all the warnings in the MZ handbook - typical german exccessively careful with regard to US liability suits.
Of course the oil is hot or at least warm and you should only drain the system when the engine is at least warm.
Don't be in a hurry. Pick a time when you have something else to do as well: checking the valves for instance is a good time.
Then you remove the plug as well simply to make turning it over easier. Good time to have a close look and/or replace that as well. Having checked the valves, leave off the oval cover for the time being. Screw the drain plug, ideally with a new Al washer, but I confess to using the same one several times, and oil line back on, put in the new oil filter and then pour about a pint of oil into the top of the engine thru the oval cover, then put that back on, too. Pour all but about a pint of the total oil into the tank and run the beast for about 5 minutes, then check the oil level in the tank, filling in the remaining oil IF necessary. Can't say for sure about the Baggi, but for the Skorpion more than minimum is too much and will be immediately disposed of.
Never even bother to check the oil if the machine has not been running; only after it is wam and within 5 minutes of having shut down.
But like I said at the top, this is the same for virtually any dry sump engine, car or bike.

go careful on the bolt on the bottom of thr frame down tube, as i snapped mine by overtightening......

Be warned !!!

Jak

Jack, what bolt do you mean by on the "frame down tube?" Is it part of the coarse filter assembly? Those are pretty fragile.