MZ/MuZ Riders

Posted: **Sat Jul 05, 2008 8:43 am**

Any one interested in writing up the procedure for adjusting valve clearances?
Does this info exist on the web somewhere?

Posted: **Sun Jul 06, 2008 2:58 am**

Ok
-take out the plug;
-remove the center screw cover ad the small chromeplated screw from the left sidecover;
-turn the crank counterclockwise with a socket until the mark on the rim of the flywheel is visible in the small hole where the chromeplated screw as' there are ---two marks, one at 5º BTDC and one following it at tdc. That is what you need.
-remove the valve cover for the intake valves and check with a feeler gauge: 0.10mm = 0.004" Be careful with the left and center valves 'cause that is a forked rockerarm and bot hvalves must be checked together. If you re changing oil at this time, leave the cover off for the time being im order to pour about a pint of oil in here, then replace.
-unscrew the two covers for the exhaust valves and check these 0,15mm = 0.006". To adjust you'll need to bend a 10mm box wrench to suit; keep this as a dedicated tool. To hold the screws you'll need a 4mm square socket. Various types are available, e.g:
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/view/tappet_tool_set/
I made my own.
In a pinch you can use a pliers or a 4mm open end wrench but bear in mind that these are special screws you cannot buy across the counter: M6x0.75 hardened.
It is easier to get at the exhaust valves if you unbolt the radiator and let it hang on its hoses but it is not absolutely necessary. Put the covers back on, being careful that the o-rings are properly seated.

When the valves are set correctly (all of them) check the fee movement of he rockerarms with your finger. try to get the feel of how much movement that is. You won't get it the first time but, it is "learnable." Next time you check the valves, do the finger check first, then measure. See how far off you were - if at all.
Normally I no longer measure at all unless they are by feeling way off. And the XTZ engine needs virtually no adjustment unless something is seriously amiss.
So if you do have to seriously reset, having previously done it correctly, check EVERYTHING.

Posted: **Sun Jul 06, 2008 3:16 pm**

Thanks Bill,
Great Post!
Thanks for takeing the time.
I want to start doing this job my self.
Mike

Posted: **Wed Jul 09, 2008 9:50 pm**

Thanks Bill, and Mike for the post, I think I need to do this also for my 04 Baggy. I have 4300k on it and it sounds a little "clickety" I called a local yamaha Dealer and they wont touch it, go figure. It does not sound too complicated. Mike, can you take some pictures? Thanks

Posted: **Tue Jul 15, 2008 3:25 pm**

did my valves a couple fo months ago i had trouble starting mine, and my inlet vavles had closed up, adjusted all valves in about an hour just ake your time its not to difficult

Jak

Posted: **Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:04 pm**

My baghira has 25,000 miles (38,000 km) on it, and I think now would be a good time to at least check the valve clearances even though he runs like a top. Do you think it's possible to go that many miles without needing an adjustment? I hate to mess with something that works.

However I think the valves do sound a bit clackity (loose clearances) but then I have nothing really to compare it to.

First time newbie doing this, looking at the procedure below, it looks straightforward enough. Where does one access the crank with a socket? I'm used to turning the rear wheel while in gear to get to the proper timing mark of course that was with a bike that has a kick-start. I wonder if one can turn the rear wheel manually enough or one does not normally have enough 'oomph' to do this.

And this tappet set, is it all I need to get the job done in case an adjustment is required?

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/view/tappet_tool_set/

(therefore no 10mm box wrench bent, needed on top).

Bill Jurgenson wrote:Ok
-take out the plug;
-remove the center screw cover ad the small chromeplated screw from the left sidecover;
-turn the crank counterclockwise with a socket until the mark on the rim of the flywheel is visible in the small hole where the chromeplated screw as' there are ---two marks, one at 5º BTDC and one following it at tdc. That is what you need.
-remove the valve cover for the intake valves and check with a feeler gauge: 0.10mm = 0.004" Be careful with the left and center valves 'cause that is a forked rockerarm and bot hvalves must be checked together. If you re changing oil at this time, leave the cover off for the time being im order to pour about a pint of oil in here, then replace.
-unscrew the two covers for the exhaust valves and check these 0,15mm = 0.006". To adjust you'll need to bend a 10mm box wrench to suit; keep this as a dedicated tool. To hold the screws you'll need a 4mm square socket. Various types are available, e.g:
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/view/tappet_tool_set/
I made my own.
In a pinch you can use a pliers or a 4mm open end wrench but bear in mind that these are special screws you cannot buy across the counter: M6x0.75 hardened.
It is easier to get at the exhaust valves if you unbolt the radiator and let it hang on its hoses but it is not absolutely necessary. Put the covers back on, being careful that the o-rings are properly seated.

When the valves are set correctly (all of them) check the free movement of he rockerarms with your finger. try to get the feel of how much movement that is. You won't get it the first time but, it is "learnable." Next time you check the valves, do the finger check first, then measure. See how far off you were - if at all.
Normally I no longer measure at all unless they are by feeling way off. And the XTZ engine needs virtually no adjustment unless something is seriously amiss.
So if you do have to seriously reset, having previously done it correctly, check EVERYTHING.

Posted: **Thu Apr 05, 2012 1:45 am**

second sentence says it all.

38tkm is a lot. It will depend on how hard you run it, but like I also wrote (see quote box), the XTZ needs virtually no adjustment. Rest assured, the play will not get more, it gets less, above all with the exhaust valves.
If it does increase, you have either lost a lock nut or have serious problemswith the rockerarms and/or cam lobes wearing. This can happen with poor oil or even just not letting the engine warm up properly.

Posted: **Thu Apr 05, 2012 12:56 pm**

Whenever I see Baghiras for sale, they usually have < 5000 miles. So, my bike has 38,000 km, makes it pretty worthless by comparison, but I'm going to keep riding. I also know what my next bike is going to be :-D

It seems the clackity noise may be normal, if the valve clearances get tighter over time. If anything it's always better a little too loose than too tight.

Thanks for your advice. I think there was a video (in German) demonstrating the valve adjustment on the MZ, so if you have a link to that, it would be helpful in this thread. :idea:

Posted: **Thu Apr 05, 2012 5:42 pm**

Search "freitaucher" on you tube. Several videos on servicing the 660 engine.

Posted: **Fri Apr 06, 2012 8:38 am**

My first MZ has over 50tmls and is still going strong, my SZR has 35tmls of "my kinda ridin" up to 9000 with prolonged stretches of German Autobahn at a constant 7500 and hasn't broken yet.
60tmls (100tkm) is nothing particular for the XTZ engine.

Posted: **Wed May 02, 2012 4:03 pm**

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZOFhDeTPSA

Here is the video

Posted: **Wed May 02, 2012 11:06 pm**

few quibbles apart from it being in german which is no problem for me.
He wastes time with obvious stuff.
He does not remove the plug. while this not necessary, it does make tuning the engine over much easier.

More important, he uses a box wrench BUT he does not hold the stud while lightening the locknut which one always should do. The stud can turn while the nur is being tightened. Tightening the nut takes up the play in the threading, increasing the tolerance, so the stud should almost grab the feeler before tightening; experiment with the left inlet rocker to get a feeling for this.

He does not show or comment the forked right rocker which can be a bit tricky to get both studs the aame.

Vastly more important, he makes no mention, let alone show the exhaust valves but these are:
1) much more important because thry are most prone to wear, and
2) there are bitch to do cause you have to take off the radiator to even get at them and even then they are not very accessible.

As for the "tappet tool" from Motion Pro, there are no tappets so presumably(the link does not work) it is useless.

For some inexplicable reason, I deluded myself that my explanation quoted above was pretty thorough.

Posted: **Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:53 am**

Thank you for clearing that up Bill... your knowledge definitely is more than appreciated!

Posted: **Sat Jul 07, 2012 6:20 pm**

Hi all , I have a year 2000 traveller with 20k miles on it . When I got it last year & gave it a service although it ran ok I found the inlet valves with no clearance !! I agree with Bill's comments regarding the forked rocker but the room round the inlets is fine , I reset them with no trouble . My exhaust valves were ok , you can check them without touching the rad but unless you're a gynaecologist with Yuri Geller skills it's in the way big time if you need to adjust them . Still it's easier to keep checking than change burnt valves .

MZ/MuZ Riders

Adjusting valve clearances

Adjusting valve clearances

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Re: Adjusting valve clearances

Re: Adjusting valve clearances

Re: Adjusting valve clearances

Re: Adjusting valve clearances

Re: Adjusting valve clearances

Re: Adjusting valve clearances

Re: Adjusting valve clearances

Re: Adjusting valve clearances

Re: Adjusting valve clearances

Re: Adjusting valve clearances

Re: Adjusting valve clearances

Re: Adjusting valve clearances