CV needle assembly ?

[Anders]

Was fiddling a bit with my CV "stock" carbs today as I removed them in favour for the TM34-B65 setup.

Anyway I thought Id clean them before I put them away and while doing so I accidentaly dropped the CV needle assembly in my lap, never happened before...

So now I am unsure of the sequence for the washer, spring, plastic piece (above or under the clip)... does anyone have the correct order on file?

My guess is (starting from the "sharp" end of the needle) spring - washer - clip - plastic

[elcaptain69]

Hi.. yes you are correct .. had mine off again today
You changed to TM34-B65 setup... whats that all about then?? I've been having carb probs for ages.. full throttle in every gear it gets choked! moved the needle to every notch but no difference

[Anders]

Thanks!

TM43-B65 is a Mikuni twin flatslide carb configuration, I'm fabricating a few bits and pieces and am waiting for some parts before I can put them in. It's all about throttle response and horsepower gains

Re: getting choked in every gear, I suspect that you have a swollen diaphragm (due to contact with unleadeded gasoline) in the right hand side CV carb. The fix is to fabricate a distance plate that will allow full movement of the CV carb throttle even with a swollen diaphragm. If you replace with an OEM part the problem will reappear ...

If you make a 3-4 mm distance 0,12" - 0,16" you will be good. You will need longer screws to assemble the cap again as well. Alternatively you get a prefabricated kit here: http://www.tunebike.de/English/Carburet ... retor.html

I have one of Tunebikes kits and it cured all my "choking" problems above 3/4 throttle, much less expensive than the EUR 100 OEM part... and a permanent fix.

[elcaptain69]

Wow... that sounds like some good advice thank you... and a cheap exercise.. I work in an engineering environment (aero tig welder) so it should be quite easy to fabricate. I checked the link out and l guess I just take a template off the top of the carb?... sorry if this is a stupid question but..... does the spacer of 3-4 m/m go on top of the diaphram.. I would think it does because of the milled out recess for the diaphragm on the carb.. I guess if it is swollen this will give it full travel again?. The link shows drill bits.. do the jets need to be opened up? I was just thinking if it was not the swollen diaphragm I could remove the spacer but no going back with the jets
I really appreciate your help thank you.

[Anders]

Drill bits are for opening up the jets (low budget dynojet option) but it is not necessary unless you want to explore that route.

Spacer goes on top of the diaphragm, and will restore full travel. It is also useful to round the inner lower edge to minimize the risk of damaging the diaphragm itself.