the small lever on the trans. shaft should be at 90ยบ to the shifting rod at rest. This is simple mechanics
The slop comes from many factors, starting with the crummy balls joint you name.. The shift drum in the transmission also has some play and the long extension of the shift shaft from the crankcase adds its part. For some seriously used racing engines (e.g. R6) there are ball bearing supports for that shaft for good reason.
The MZ shiftlever ist at best a piece of blacksmithing. Sturdy perhaps but in reality junk and not worth fiddling with. Unlike the brake lever (even more junky) which can easily be replaced with an OEM Yamaha item (forged aluminum with bronce bushing), there is no simple replacement.
- TZR brake lever
- Yamaha lever.jpg (19.51 KiB) Viewed 6664 times
Or rather, as Doug says, just mount a XT lever bent to fit and be rid of the whole nuisance.
- XT lever.jpg (21.61 KiB) Viewed 6664 times
BTW, those are OEM MZ Replica pegs.
I have been advocating this (i.e. 1st gear up) sind the 90ies and all my MZs and the Yamaha are so converted.
Both Bimota and Laverda racers also have 1st gear up pattern but with linkage
(the Laverda was 2st up right side anyway)
So does my Skorpion XP with the Gilles rearsets but there, it is only to be able to show the Gilles as a complete unit as they can be bought.
You can see, tho, that those are high-priced no-slop ball joints; the shift lever has 2(!) ball bearings and both it and the accompanying lever on the trans shaft as well as the toe piece on the lever have several holes to vary the actual lever travel and I have the alternative rolling toe pice mounted. Yes, I know, the Gilles are very expensive. It's like with most everything else: you get what you pay for.