MZ/MuZ Riders

I ordered a 15/50 sprocket set from germany and a 520x120 renthal O ring chain today.

How hard is changing this? Getting the rear tire off seemed easy when I had a tire installed, and the sprocket came off very easily. Looked like it was mounted to a spindle hub of some sort.

There is a small cover over the front sprocket, but once that is off, how hard is it to get off?

I am very excited. It looks like it will move the 3rd gear max from 60ish down to 53ish, but should give a ton more grunt. I really like the 55-70mph accel I expect to get from it.

Don't take the rear wheel off until you remove the countershaft nut. Use the proper socket and either a long breaker bar or an electric or air impact drill/wrench. Does the bike have a continuous (no master link clip type) chain? You'll need to grind off the chain pins or cut the chain off. If you are replacing the chain with a continuous one, you will need the proper tool to rivet the chain link master.
15/50? Really? Will you even need 1st gear?


Gordon

GordonH wrote:Don't take the rear wheel off until you remove the countershaft nut. Use the proper socket and either a long breaker bar or an electric or air impact drill/wrench. Does the bike have a continuous (no master link clip type) chain? You'll need to grind off the chain pins or cut the chain off. If you are replacing the chain with a continuous one, you will need the proper tool to rivet the chain link master.
15/50? Really? Will you even need 1st gear?


Gordon

I don't think it will be that bad. I don't want to go over 80mph anyway. haha. I'm not sure what the reduction in top speed will be, but if it's capable of 110 normally, it should still be cruising in 5th at 70mph.

Honestly I don't know if the chain I got (renthal o ring) is a welded/rivited chain or what. It does have a welded link on the chain right now. Guy at the shop said he had never seen one before. I have various cutters to remove it.

Is it fairly straightforward otherwise? What is a countershaft nut? Is that the nut on the front sprocket?

my method to remove the nut is have some one put the rear brake on hard

make sure you have bent down the locking tab for the nut
then take it loose with a big wrench or air impact
dave

make sure that lock tab goes back on
a tab like it from a yamaha shop will do

Sweet! thank you

The standard front sprocket is 15, so no need to change it unless it's worn. Unless you have an impact wrench, then you might as well put on the new one. If you don't have an impact wrench, better to take it to a bike shop to do it, save yourself a lot of trouble. You can try with a long breaker bar. Don't put the bike in gear to try to stop the sprocket turning, that can damage the gearbox. What some people do is jam a thick piece of wood "2 by 4" or something between the rear sprocket and chain.

cat wrote:The standard front sprocket is 15, so no need to change it unless it's worn. Unless you have an impact wrench, then you might as well put on the new one. If you don't have an impact wrench, better to take it to a bike shop to do it, save yourself a lot of trouble. You can try with a long breaker bar. Don't put the bike in gear to try to stop the sprocket turning, that can damage the gearbox. What some people do is jam a thick piece of wood "2 by 4" or something between the rear sprocket and chain.

Yes I have an impact. Thanks for those ideas! Sounds like it's going to be a bugger to start twisting!

Stock you should have been 15/45, so going to 50 is only around a 10% change. I could only find a 47 tooth, and really couldn't tell the difference. It still cruises at 70, and gets to 80 with just a flip of the wrist. I have taken it to 95, and it was still going, but not me with knobbie tires.

Where did you find the 50 tooth? How much?

harold wrote:Stock you should have been 15/45, so going to 50 is only around a 10% change. I could only find a 47 tooth, and really couldn't tell the difference. It still cruises at 70, and gets to 80 with just a flip of the wrist. I have taken it to 95, and it was still going, but not me with knobbie tires.

Where did you find the 50 tooth? How much?

http://www.off-the-road.de/Other-bikes/ ... f-51Z.html

I ordered the 50 instead of the 51 because the 51 is steel (prefered for me) and the 51 is aluminum. But the 51 had a 3 week lead time, where the 50 only had a 1-2 week lead time.

They don't want to quote a delivery time, but if it gets here in a month I'll be happy! I am glad to hear that 47 didn't do too much. If I get to 20 in first, it will only get to 18 after the change, so no big deal! 60 becomes 54 though, which is a bigger deal, but I hope to regain what little juice I lost to the turbo exhaust I just put on.