MZ/MuZ Riders

I just tried for the first time to do some programming on my sparker unit and can't get my computer to read it. Anyone out there have a suggestion for me? I purchased a USB to RS232(DB9) cable and it came with software of some sort that installed fine. The CD that came with the sparker doesn't seem to have an install option that I could find so I just tried to open the program with the spark plug icon and got a com error. After clicking "ok", the program opens but won't sense a connection to the device. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

in playing with ham radio stuff..
i have found the USB to RS232(DB9) cables
to be a joke and most of the time a problem
find a computer with a real serial port connection

dave

I didn't know that the computer wouldn't read the settings without a 12v power source hooked up to the unit until now.

Hi EDFManiac,
Let us know how get on with tuning The TCIP4. I'm interested in buing one of these for a MZ251 engine that I intend doing some work on soon. Mine will be to get more Torque rather than top end. Any tips on use of the software and the results you get will be helpful.

Thanks,
Philip

It's very easy to use once you get it powered up and find the right cable. My only complaint, and it seems to be a rare one, is that my particular bike runs much better all throughout the lower rpm range with the aggressive advance of the stock box. I'm not talking power but cleaner, more useable in town torque. I never have to worry about killing the bike at a stop sign or light, unlike with the Ignitech the way it was delivered. After reprogramming the Ignitech to a curve that is much closer to OEM specs it runs much better but I will be starting over again with Bill's curve after I put the 11:1 and cam in to prevent any detonation.

I think the ideal way to set these up is to actually measure the base advance - the number of degrees BTDC that the ignition pickup sends it's signal to the controller, and then check the advance settings against a couple of marks on the flywheel - this is the only way to make *sure* the advance numbers you're seeing in the software are matching the real advance numbers. Personally I'd guess they're at least a couple of degrees more retarded than they show, even on the stock setting. The Ignitech XT600 shows a 10 degree base advance which is probably close to what it really is, but I still think retarded - I believe it will end up being the same as the idle advance - 12 degrees.

I plan on setting one up this way in the next couple of weeks. I would assume that, once we have a measured base and validated timing readings off a marked flywheel for *any* MZ 660 it will be the same as all of them. I'll share my results, then we can compare apples to apples.

Sam