MZ/MuZ Riders

Hi Guys. Just started and full of questions. Got masell a Baghira and while trying it out I'm finding the clutch lever is a bit of a strain on my forearm. Is there an adjustable set of levers out there that I can buy. I would just like it a bit closer in toward the grip.
The other thing is. I'd love to change the tail light to an LED. Suggestion where I can get this and best way of fitting them. Is there a restriction on the sizes the number plate at the rear needs to be would like to reduce this slightly to suit the LED tail light. Is there a Haynes Manual for the Baghira.
Thanks guy hope you can help
Pla

Number plates in the UK have to be a specific size and style by law, and are required to have the manufacturers name on them. As for fitting led rear lights, you may have to fit a blocking diode in the side light circuit as the front light may flash on when you apply the brake. This is because most led rear lights get brighter as extra current is supplied via the brake light circuit, in an ordinary bulb its handled via a second filement.

there are adjustable clutch levers out there for a WR450 and others, maybe you could adapt an XT660 to suit as well?

radiograf wrote:Number plates in the UK have to be a specific size and style by law, and are required to have the manufacturers name on them. As for fitting led rear nice led lights, you may have to fit a blocking diode in the side light circuit as the front light may flash on when you apply the brake. This is because most led rear lights get brighter as extra current is supplied via the brake light circuit, in an ordinary bulb its handled via a second filement.

Yes led lights are more bright and less power consuming than ordinary bulb

Why not simply cut the actuating lever at the clutch end and weld in an small extension piece (say 1") to give an increase in length, and therefore a greater mechanical advantage at the handlebar lever?

Simple, cheap and less hassle.

Just to be sure, unhook the clutch cable ends and see if it moves freely. In some cases
the cable seems to be working OK, but in fact is sticking pretty significantly.
In my case it made a surprising difference....
There are alternative cables that fit if you can't source the official MZ part.
Good luck,
Jim

what is the alternative cluch cable part ?

pleases advise

It could be the cable needs lubricating, the easiest way I know is to use chain lube. Pull the clutch lever in, and using the straw it comes with squirt some chain lube down the cable via the clutch boss. Then just keep operating the clutch leaver, adding more lube as necessary.
The other thing to check is the cable routing, check that its free, and that there are no tight curves or kinks in it.

there are some types of cables that do not like to be lubed
had a couple that lube just made them worse
might try rinsing the crud out with some type cleaner and if it frees up then some silicon lube like a pad lock lube
so it does not seize up on a very cold day
some cables have an inner plastic/nylon liner if it goes they can be very hard to work

sent one out for repair fellow used to large of diameter replacement cable
so i carry it as a road spare in case i break one
dave

Same experience with the original cable as Dave, the plastic liner is toast and starting to pull out, i tried flush & lube & drislide
graphite - no dice it is history. In this condition the clutch action was driveable, but pull effort was giving me carpal tunnel.
For the Skorpion Sport (low bars) the Kawasaki EX500 cable (Kaw.# 54011-1259) is pretty close, but requires a sleeve adaptor on the lever end.otherwise perfect. I can supply a print/pix of the adaptor if anyone cares.
I originally tried a Suzuki TC125/TS125 cable that looked close, works fine but overall it is at least 6 inch too long ,
and I had nightmares about that slack loop flopping around in the fairing catching something....
This Suzuki cable may be the ticket for the dualsport and high bar Skorp. the cable sheath (including threaded adjuster) is 41"
and the inner cable extends 3" longer. Sorry no part number, the cable was in an aftermarket supplier package.
I also looked at the Raptor ATV , and that cable is longer than the Skorp. sport , requires a lever end adaptor , and doesn't have the hard tube bend thingie at the lever end, but it too may be the hot setup for the dualsports/supermoto.
Jim

i used a clutch cable from a Saxon Tour with 500cc rotax on my 660 Traveller

had to raid my giant spares box (been adding parts for 50 years) for a lever with an adjuster
and wound up with and adjuster on both ends to get the spacing correct
so can use saxon tour cables on either bike now
and it just barely fits but i had adjusted the low bars up high
dave
fine detail picture on request and most of the stuff i used was from bmw new old stock spares

It might be worth checking out a classic bike shop, they should be able to make up a cable from a supplied pattern.

motion pro and flanders do this in the usa
if you do not have a local shop that does
dave

If this doesn't work, it might be worth trying an Easy Clutch. They are used by off road riders to lighten the clutch pull, and fit between your own cable and the boss. Available on US ebay for about $30, or UK ebay at £15ish. Its one of the things that has been suggested for use by the National Association for Bikers with a Disability http://www.nabd.org.uk for riders with reduced power in their hands.

Can't say I've used it my self,but examples I've seen seem well made.

radiograf wrote:If this doesn't work, it might be worth trying an Easy Clutch. They are used by off road riders to lighten the clutch pull, and fit between your own cable and the boss. Available on US ebay for about $30, or UK ebay at £15ish. Its one of the things that has been suggested for use by the National Association for Bikers with a Disability http://www.nabd.org.uk for riders with reduced power in their hands.

easyclutch.jpg

Can't say I've used it my self,but examples I've seen seem well made.

I had one of these on my crm250 , fantastic bit of kit ,i cut the lever short on purpose so i could just use one finger to work the clutch.lol.It made holding on for dear life more acceptable,specially with one wheel in the air