MZ/MuZ Riders

Hey there guys, just picked up a skorpion for $400 because it would stall out after a few miles. Turned out to be a venting issue on the tank and only costed me one hour of labor to fix. SWEET bike I really like the feeling of one cylinder.

One problem with the bike is that the tachometer is not working, I will trace the wire, but I am looking for any info that the mz community can offer.

Problem two is that the front brake rotor feels like it is a little warped. I have looked for a replacement, but no luck. Do I have other options?

Sounds like a great deal!

its a Sport or early Tour the tach is a know issue - $$$$$ through MuZ. Some have replaced it with aftermarket or Yamaha tach. So have done a direct drive tach using a SRX drive off the side of the engine.

www.grahamsmotorcycles.com (UK) has a parts catolog on line.

The front rotor is also available from MuZ and EBC Europe has a rotor available. I've heard that US folks have ordered the rotor from US EBC distributers.

Have fun

Doug in NJ

forget the original tach.
there are lots of aftermarket instruments out there, some very good some pretty shoddy. Best bet for the money is a Scitscu
http://www.scitsu.co.uk/docs/fitment.htm

the third type down, coded red.
there are many others

turfsurfer wrote:Problem two is that the front brake rotor feels like it is a little warped. I have looked for a replacement, but no luck. Do I have other options?

Had that with mine, check to see the rotor is free to move on the bobins, I cured mine by one drop of oil on each bobin, be very careful you don't get any on the brake disc.

Good Luck.

I use a little squirt of chain lube on the bobbins on a disc rotor. It goes on thin then thickens to coat the surface, and is designed so stick. Obviously wipe any excess of the disc before using.

Try to find a workshop that rebuilds instruments (I've found a few in Sweden, so I think you would be able as well.), and ask them to replace the electronics inside your tachometer (It's no use tying to repair the original electronics - I've tried.). I have no idea what it would cost, but then you can keep the the original dashboard, and dont have bother the hassle of fitting a new one.

Thanks for the feed back fellas! I like the idea of keeping the original cluster, so I am going to try to find a place in san diego that rebuilds tachs, but I am not really in that much of a hurry because it is not completely necassary to ride it. I am going to give the bobbins a cleaning to see if it takes care of the braking issue.

Found a video on youtube about bobbin cleaning at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qoPqN2GBdw.

This guys bike looks crazy with chains hanging off all over the place. Kinda wasteful and unnecessary, but who am I to judge?

I will post after I clean the bobbins

cleaned the bobbins. They all moved freely before cleaning, maybe too freely, but they felt a little "gritty". After cleaning them the grabbyness was still there. It's not noticeable at high speeds, just at the last twenty feet or so before coming to a complete stop. looking for a rotor now, the tach will have to wait

Check the surface of the disc on both sides, there could be a pitted area, causing the brakes to grab. Could be that the rotor just needs skimming.

Maybe your brake pads are glazed, I think I would give the rotor a sanding with wet & dry paper, and fit new HH sintered pads,

The new pads will not be a waste, as you will need new pads for the new disc if they don't cure the judder.

found some new pads on ebay. I think that I can see where the center disk is bent, it doesn't look like the rotor itself is bent. I ill try the new pads when they come. Found a new rotor for $275 + $35 shipping, but don't have the funds right now. Could there be any other disks that will fit?

Also, sinse I do not have a tach, at what speed do you shift to 2nd, 3rd, etc. I have always ridden inline 4 bikes

I'm thinking that it might be better to get a new wheel. I have an 01 yamaha r6 wheel lying around and also have a 91 suzuki gsx1100g with a bigger 18" wheel

ok. I don't know if any one is reading still, but it seemed like the the suzuki wheel might have fit, if the axles were compatible. However, I was unable to get the axle to turn on the MZ. loosened everything, but no spinning. Started to strip the hex on the axle with a cheater bar, so I gave up and started to take a closer look at the bend in the inner ring of the rotor.

It seemed like the bend was restricting movement of the adjacent bobbin. I'm sure you guys are going to cringe, but I decided to hammer the sh!t out of it until it looked a little straighter.

Now the MZ is braking much smoother. Enough for me to say that I do not need a new rotor.

I would not recommend hammering the braking surface, but hitting the inner disk worked like a charm. SWEET

I love it when a hammer is the "right tool" for the job

You could do with getting that axle problem sorted, try gently heating the ends of the fork stantions with a paint stripper gun. The alloy will expand at a greater rate than the steel axle, loosening it up.

thats a good idea. I will try it next time i am at my buddies house, he has a heat gun.