MZ/MuZ Riders

Warning...!!!!

went out yesterday, and on my way home a front brake caliper bolt came loose.... must have been out for a while... i lost my digital speedo signal, and 20 miles later the front wheel slowed down.. didnt lock upo but came to a slow stop... gouged a slot in the aluminium caliper braket. and severely buclked all the brake disk bobbins.... had to phone for recovery as no way could i ride bike home...

have took wheel off today, and removed disk... didnt require much force to seperate the disk from the carrier... also had to grind one of the rotor holding bolts off too...

anyone know where i can get the rotor bolts...???

as one is knackererd.. but may as well change the lot are they standard m8 15 button heads ???

or something unique to this, or the same as fitted to R1 R6... i also need a new disk unless i can repair the disk and carrier with new bobbins...

does anoyne know if the race spec disk bobbins are available anywhere... as can't seem to find any measured as 14mm

:-S

handsomejackuk wrote:anyone know where i can get the rotor bolts...???

Grahams Motorcycles

may as well change the lot are they standard m8 15 button heads ???

No. :-/

or something unique to this

Yes. :-S

, or the same as fitted to R1 R6

i wish they were.

This is a sore point for me. i'll tell you later. i'm going out for a smoke now. It's a sad story.

sorted phoned up pontypridd breakers.. they quoted me £50 for an R1 disk.. on my way there decided to call on my mate...he does moto x repairs 90% of the time... result his girlfriend had 2 R1 disks there they were fitted to her bike but were odd one had 8 bobbins the other had 10 bobbins... thinking he would say £50 each... he said £20 each.. i did mention that i may take the two off him no probs £30 for the pair... the one with the 8 bobbins has some slight wear, but the 10 bobbin disk is perfect all fitted... boought some new high tensile disk bolts slightly longer too... at .... least they go in a bit further too. will loctite them in when i get te bike out and have a bit more room... also ordered 2 flanged zinc plated m8 x 30 for the caliper holding bolts...

sorted for less than £40...

phew !!!!1

phoned grahams £176 for a disk !!!!!

my sore point is the control levers that only fit the MZ bikes and no other bike sold in the usa
they fit lots of other bikes in Europe but none of them imported
the rt125 front sprocket that only fits the rt125 same with the rear one
rear brake on rt125 that is a bastard to bleed

when the dealer net work is small this is bad for the customer as his access to parts is very bad
and even worse when the company closes

dave

have fun fixing stuff jack it never seems to end

seems like every time i go out on the baghira i end up spending the next half day sorting something.... my next thing is to sort out the back offside indicator.... then i have to grind a small slot in to the gear lever mill pin to allow the fitment of some circlips... then source some magnets for the cycle speedo...

would ideally love to get a trailtech vapor... as love the versatility with the temp guage rev counter trips and whatever.. maybe one day... also need to get a new rear tyre soon, before my annual m.o.t. test... and get the rear wheel respoked with stainless steel spokes as per the front...wheel...

just have to go through it all quietly it will all get sorted though...

these R1 10 bobbin disks are so much stronger than the original mz 6 bobbin disks... i also have a 8 bobbin disk too... recommend if anyone gets new disks go for the 10 bobbin R1 type... there is no rattle in them at all... the 6 bobbin disk was crap and rattly it must make a difference.. the load is now placed around 10 bobbins instead of 6...

well chuffed... got a spare disk now too to fit to 19 inch wheel when i find one..

Did you use washers with the disk bolts? The originals have a much bigger surface area against the disk. So i was not happy with the ones i tried from Pro-Bolt.

The rear ones are a serious problem. The original ones get messed up when you remove them. There is very little clearance for the bolt heads to pass through the caliper. The originals have a wide flange (hat look like a big washer), I didn't want to use ordinary stainless steel button heads, and the Pro-Bolt Ti ones had about half the clamping surface, so i ended up getting black button heads. So they rust immediately, of course.

i have used ordinary m6 bolts with the head shaved down to clear caliper,use a 10mm socket to remove,been on the bike for a while now with no problems

Thanks. I should do that - better than button heads, even though the tightening torque is low. Sometimes i wish had one of those little cad plating kits.

sounds like a good idea... i have flanged stainless steel button heads on my rear caliper cant remember where i got them probably from here

http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/Flanged-So ... B22JQ.aspx

oh, they look exactly like the originals, same washer/flange. But i'm a bit afraid of ss there, it's only about half the strength of steel - roughly; the originals are not HT anyway.

So the R1 10-bobbin disk, the disk holder/mounting thing fitted exactly? (wow)

...but hell, i'd like to change the caliper too.