MZ/MuZ Riders

Hi all

New guy here. Just bought myself a pretty trick skorpion with bigger JE piston (670) , Keihin CR carb , Honda 900rr front end and early r6 swing arm and shock! It's in need of some love - as the previous owner had it sitting outside for quite some time. Will post pix when I'm done refreshing it.

Working on the bike tonight I Saw the front sprocket hanging free off the countershaft! Mustve lost it on the freeway early... Yikes.

Anyhow I will be needing a new washer and lock nut - is there a North American equivalent part? XT600?

Any help is appreciated!

Hi.

This is the sprocket nut, they seem to fit many Yamaha models, I'm not sure about about the locking washer.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-YFM660-Y ... 4abae7d832

Thanks. The Nut in the link you sent me worked. I picked up a Yamaha Raptor 660 Lock nut and it worked a treat.

The Locking Washer from the raptor did not work however. The splines are different.

If anyone knows the correct locking washer Yamaha part - please chime in !

it's the one for the US version of the xt600E (1995?)- I have one new in the package at home. I'll post a part number tonight.

BTW - bike sounds intresting - pictures?

Doug in NJ

Sweet. That's the one I have on order. I'm just gonna grab one from the stealership after work - getting ansy!!

I haven't gotten around to snapping pix yet - Valve stems weren't holding air so I have the wheels off. Pix will come soon. The previous owner worked at a Local Dealership in San Diego and did a lot of nice work to it. Custom manifold to use the Smoothbore CR carbs... really sweet.

So far i've had to clean the carbs, rebleed and clean brake calipers, and get new valve stems.

Last thing on the list is the throttle cables or carb throttle return spring (?) - the throttle does not snap back on it's own.

Stay tuned!!!

It Yamaha number 90215 23265

Doug in nj

Thanks Doug! The locking washer is the final part needed.

I'm going to tackle the oil change tmrw but I have never done it on
A dry sump.

This is the procedure I've read online. Am I doing it right?
1. Run the bike to heat up oil
2. Drain oil from bottom via drain bolt (is there a secondary tube that needs draining?)
3. Replace oil filter cartridge after draining (right side of engine right?)
4. Fill underseat oil reservoir with 2 qts. Let motor run in order to fill crankcase with oil.
5. Top off with another .8 qts of oil

Very excited!

Hernz wrote:Thanks Doug! The locking washer is the final part needed.

I'm going to tackle the oil change tmrw but I have never done it on
A dry sump.

This is the procedure I've read online. Am I doing it right?
1. Run the bike to heat up oil
2. Drain oil from bottom via drain bolt (is there a secondary tube that needs draining?)
3. Replace oil filter cartridge after draining (right side of engine right?)
4. Fill underseat oil reservoir with 2 qts. Let motor run in order to fill crankcase with oil.
5. Top off with another .8 qts of oil

Very excited!

Get engine oil warm.

Undo the engine oil feed pipe, under the gear change lever, and let oil drain from tank, I have from time to time cleaned the oil tank out by pouring petrol through the tank at this stage, refit the pipe.

Under the left side of the engine is the gear box drain bolt, drain this next and refit bolt.

If you follow the oil pipe back to the tank, under the airbox, above the swing arm pivot, is a cylinder that is part of the oil feed line, this contains the course filter and needs cleaning in petrol from time to time, it can be a bear to undo but as its the first time you have changed the oil its better to check to see if all's well, you can refit using all the original sealing washers.

Now change the oil filter.

Fill oil tank with 2 ltr/qts of oil and run engine until oil is hot, top up to correct level.

It is quite a drawn out procedure but not hard once you have done it.

Oil change was a snap, once I figured out where everything was . Also, thanks for the tip on the coarse filter. That thing was filthy!!!!!

Still waiting on the the lock washer and I should be all set.

During the oil change I realized the front of the frame had 2 sets of nuts/bolts that SHOULD hold the steering assembly into the frame. My bike only had the bottom bolt remaining with no nut! Glad i Caught that before doing any serious riding happened..... Scary stuff.

Steering assembly bolts? The triples are held by clamp bolts,the stem is through bolted to head stock bearing...what bolts are you talking about?

basser23 - Not sure what it's called exactly. But look at the right hand side of your bike - Behind the VIN stamp where the "Made in Germany" plate is- There is a bolt/nut set before and after "Made in Germany" . Those were missing. I only had 1 bolt near the "Made".

Good news - The sprocket nut finally came in today so The bike is pretty much done! Will post pix when it's light out.

Those bolts would hold the front down tube for the frame to mount the engine! I'd say they were a bit important...tighten them with blue lock tite .....they must have vibrated loose..
Even though my engine is stock,except jetting and pipe, EVERY bolt has blue lock tite!!! or safety wired....

on my traveller they have nylock nuts right side
and look to be original

the made in germany sticker is on the front of the head tube not the side

while every one is looking remember to check the bolts on the ingition switch while your there...

dave

Hernz wrote:basser23 - Not sure what it's called exactly. But look at the right hand side of your bike - Behind the VIN stamp where the "Made in Germany" plate is- There is a bolt/nut set before and after "Made in Germany" . Those were missing. I only had 1 bolt near the "Made".

Good news - The sprocket nut finally came in today so The bike is pretty much done! Will post pix when it's light out.

Hernz, any pics of your beauty? Updates?

I just picked up my Baggy last night, and I will also be ordering a countershaft sprocket--thanks for the back ground, guys--I wasn't sure which to order.

BTW, just ordered the sprocket nut and lock washer from boats.net - great prices ($8.36, shipped, for both parts) --now we'll see if they ship in a reasonable amount of time.