MZ/MuZ Riders

Hi all.
bit of a setback yesterday My newly aquired Mz Scorpion Tour has a taillight problem and while trying to establish the fault the grey wiring started to cook
Now I will resort to try and chnage as much wiring as I can with thicker more durable car wire.

Does anybody have a full wiring diagram for my Tour? it would be really helpful.

nice day to all

You don't need to move up in wire gauge. You just need to find good quality wire in the same gauge as factory wiring and find the short. A bigger wire will just cause a more severe short. Do you need turn signals or just brake light, head light and everything that makes the bike run? There is a good page on this site for a bare bones basic wiring harness if that's all you need. But here's the factory diagram.


http://imagik.fr/uploads/84493

Thanks for the link. Funny I managed to open it up on my mobile Samsung s3Mini but cant open it on my pc.
What do you suggest to open this file?

The problem with the existing wire is that it is fragile/thin. So my idea is to eliminate much of the earth wire and make dedicated earth spots around the chassis.

I need the lights yes but if you can guide me to the link I can start from the basic wiring and build from there.

Funny how they use just under 1mm wire to feed all the lights, indicators clocks lamps breaklights etc !

But there's nothing wrong with the gauge wire used on the bike, .5mm and .75mm are roughly 24 gauge and 20 gauge. Look up the amp rating on that wire and you'll see that the fuses should blow long before the wire gets hot. The problem is chaffing and brittle insulation. 18 gauge is as large as I would go. Just count how many wires are in the thickest part of the harness, subtract the ones you KNOW that you won't need, and do a mock up with the wire you want to use to see how big it will be in the end. It adds up fast with larger dia wire.

Don't know why you can't open the file. It's a weird one though. When you try to copy the image and open that file, it's just a text file. Try Googling MZ Skorpion wiring diagram and viewing image from there. I may have uploaded some photos of my diagram on here somewhere but need to look around to find it.

Try this one.

http://binatani.com/wp-content/uploads/ ... ematic.jpg

And here's the wiring diagram for my custom bike. Wire sizes are marked.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6533&start=75#p35903

60 YEARS I HAVE BEEN DOING WIRING
THE FRAME OF ANY THING IS A BAD WAY TO GET GROUND RETURN IN A CIRCUIT
its just a bad backup for a real piece of number 12 or 14 stranded copper
dave

thanks a lot, am studying the wiring at the mom before I go to sleep.

I will in the end get to a compromise.
As wit wiring adding up thickness yes you are absolutely right. I am thinking to separate the new loom and route the back lights Indicators brake etc to the right hand side. this will end with less clutter .


don't know yr time, but here its almost time to sleep


thanks again

DAVID THOMPSON wrote:60 YEARS I HAVE BEEN DOING WIRING
THE FRAME OF ANY THING IS A BAD WAY TO GET GROUND RETURN IN A CIRCUIT
its just a bad backup for a real piece of number 12 or 14 stranded copper
dave

Yep. I ran a strand of 14 from the rear of the bike to the front. I have a nice fuse box in the rear with block of grounding points and I have a bolt on the steering stem where all of the grounds from the front of the bike attach to the other end of the 14 gauge.

I found the fault, it seams that I switched the 2 wires that goes into the small pilot ( daylight) lamp of the headlamp. The positive was connected to the negative and when I switched on the light the grey wires (positive ) grounded (shorted ) themselves !!

Now I traced ite grey wires to a diode and since the wires are pretty cooked up I drew up a diagram how they should be attached.
Can anyone confirm that its correct.
What wattage should the diode be (12 volts ok need the watts)


Also (not so much important) the Black and White wire has a dead end in the wiring diagram ?? any ideas? it seems to go into the lights switch


Nice day to all

I don't know where those go. Sorry.

Sorted
since my bike was sold in Europe the wiring philosophy is different.

power is sent to the pilot rear light and pilot front headlamp when you set the key on park. The diode 6Amp and some 400 volts(safe for motorcycle applications)
will prevent current to flow to the instruments lights. On the other hand if you switch the lights on power will flow to the pilot rear light ,pilot front headlamp and instrument lights.

So I replaced the melted wires, replaced some brown (earth wiring from 3 wires rear indicators and rear light to single 1mm one) checked the wiring loom wire by wire. freshly taped contacts cleaned.

Now am happily commuting with my bike.
One slight prob, i uploaded a picture but its all black, how can I remove it and replace it with a lower resolution one?

Next project....fabricate panniers and head to Sicily