Baghira oil and filter change

[cghstang]

I bought my baghira this winter and it's overdue for an oil change. I have the yamaha szr 660 pdf manual that I got off this forum, but I don't think the baghira is setup the same. Are there any how-to's that I'm overlooking on how to change the oil? I had no trouble with my ninja 250 but I had a factory service manual for that. I honestly don't really know where to begin with the baghira. Some general directions would be greatly appreciated.

[OLDMTNCARVER]

cghstang,
Oil filters can be purchased from a Yamaha dealer. The filter is the same as a Raptor quad with the 660 engine, part number 4X7-13440-90. Also if you choose a K&N filter, part number KN-145.
You'll need to pull both the engine drain and the the plug at the bottem of the main down tube that the line attaches to in front of the engine and open the filler at the top of the main down tube to allow proper drainage.
Also don't forget the little bleeder screw on the filter houseing to bleed any air out of the system and have a rag handy...
It's really pretty straight forward.
Also when it comes time for an air filter get the Twin Air filter part number 22508 / vendor number 154512 from a KTM dealer.
Have a good one,
OMC

[cghstang]

What is the oil capacity when changing the oil and filter? How do I check the level? I think I remember reading that it can be tricky but not any details. Thanks for helping an MZ newbie.

[keithcross]

Sort of copied from teh owners manual.

OIL CHANGE PROCEDURE

REMOVE DRAIN PLUG, 2 OIL PIPE SCREWS AND COARSE OIL FILTER PUG TO DRAIN OIL

LOOSEN BOTTOM FILTER COVER ALLEN BOLT BY 5 TURNS

REMOVE ALL FILTER COVER ALLEN BOLTS, OIL FILTER COVER AND FILTER

SOAK NEW OIL FILTER THEN REASSEMBLE OIL FILTER COVER WITH NEW FILTER

REPLACE OIL DRAIN PLUG, OIL TUBE AND COARSE FILTER PLUG

POUR 2.5 LITRES OF OIL INTO FRAME

ALLOW ENGINE TO IDLE WHILE LOOSENING OIL FILTER BLEED SCREW

TURN ENGINE OFF

CHECK OIL LEVEL AND TOP UP AS NECESSARY

RUN ENGINE UP TO TEMPERATURE, ALLOW TO IDLE FOR 30 SECONDS, SWITCH THE ENGINE OFF AND RE-CHECK OIL LEVEL


Keith

[MSW]

Procedure for changing/checking the oil from the Baghira manual (with some translation/clarification from me):

1. Warm the engine up
2. Place the motorcycle on its side stand on a flat, level surface
3. Vent the oil tank by opening the fill cap (on top right side of frame, near steering head)
4. Place a container underneath the engine to collect the oil
5. Unscrew the oil drain plug (left side of engine, behind shift lever); don't lose the rubber oil seal that should come out as well
6. Loosen the 2 screws on the oil pipe (just forward of the oil drain plug); you don't need to remove them completely, but be careful with the oil seal on the pipe
7. Unscrew the coarse oil filter plug (at bottom of front frame downtube), making sure you have a rag or container under it to catch a bit of oil; clean the wire screen
8. Let the oil drain completely out of the pipe and the oil drain plug
9. Loosen the oil filter drain plug (right side of engine, under headers); it’s the bottom of the three screws holding the oil filter cover on; , unscrew FIVE turns ONLY (oil drains inside)
10. After the filter drains, remove all three oil filter cover screws; NOTE that each screw must be replaced in the same position from which it was removed, as they are all different sizes
11. Remove the oil filter (and, once again, mind the rubber oil seal on the cover!)
12. Soak the new filter in NEW oil, insert it, position the rubber seal carefully, and screw the lid on tightly (10 Nm [7.4 lb-ft] torque)
13. Reassemble and replace the coarse oil filter plug (30 Nm [22.1 lb-ft] torque) (at bottom of front frame downtube), replacing seal and washers, if necessary
14. Replace the oil pipe (12 Nm [8.9 lb-ft] torque) (just forward of the oil drain plug), replacing seal, if necessary
15. Replace the oil drain plug (30 Nm [22.1 lb-ft] torque) (left side of engine, behind shift lever)
16. Fill with 2.5 liters (2.64 U.S. quarts) of oil
17. Start and let the engine idle for at least 30 seconds
18. While idling, loosen the oil filter vent screw (Philips-head screw on top of oil filter housing) FOR A FEW SECONDS (as sagely advised above, keep a rag handy), then re-tighten (5 Nm [3.7 lb-ft] torque)
19. Turn engine off
20. Add up to an additional 0.5 liters (0.53 U.S. quarts) until the oil reaches the “Max” mark
21. Take the bike for a 5 minute test ride (after you’ve made sure you’ve properly retightened all of the screws, of course)
22. When you return from your ride, stop the bike and keep it upright on a level surface while it idles for 30 seconds
23. Turn off engine and (keeping the bike upright) unscrew the oil tank fill cap (on top right side of frame, near steering head), wipe dipstick, screw the fill cap back in until it stops, unscrew, re-check level, and fill as needed

NOTE: The amount of oil needed to move the oil level from the “Min” mark to the “Max” mark is 0.5 liters (0.53 U.S. quarts)

According to the manual, these are the fill capacities:

Fill for oil change WITHOUT filter: 2.9 liters (3.06 U.S. quarts)

Fill for oil change WITH filter: 3 liters (3.17 U.S. quarts)

Total oil capacity: 3.3 liters (3.49 U.S. quarts) (Huh?!?)

Do what I did. Copy that into a Word document, print it out, and pin it up on the garage wall. Not exactly second nature yet, and much different/more complicated than the procedure for changing the oil on any other bike I've owned.

[cghstang]

Thanks for all the tips guys. I'll put them to use this weekend and let you know how it goes.

[buckwheat5679]

cghstang,
Oil filters can be purchased from a Yamaha dealer. The filter is the same as a Raptor quad with the 660 engine, part number 4X7-13440-90. Also if you choose a K&N filter, part number KN-145.
You'll need to pull both the engine drain and the the plug at the bottem of the main down tube that the line attaches to in front of the engine and open the filler at the top of the main down tube to allow proper drainage.
Also don't forget the little bleeder screw on the filter houseing to bleed any air out of the system and have a rag handy...
It's really pretty straight forward.
Also when it comes time for an air filter get the Twin Air filter part number 22508 / vendor number 154512 from a KTM dealer.
Have a good one,
OMC

Just a heads up, the filter on a Rapor quad is a spin-on. Just ask for one that fits a Yamaha XT 600

[OLDMTNCARVER]

cghstang,
The part numbers are correct and current for both the oil filters and the air filter, purchased a couple months ago at their respective dealerships.
I needed to change the oil in my Baghira...
As buckwheat5657 suggests the Yamaha dealer will verify the XT numbers that I shared at the first post with the purpose to assist the parts man with your purchase. (The numbers came from this forum)

Take note of the effort to detail that Keithcross and MSW took with their explainations. There's alot of good folk at this forum and a wealth of information!

buckwheat5657,
Thank you for the clearification.
PS, I don't own a Rapor quad. Too old!

[cghstang]

I changed the oil and filter today. Thanks to all of your assistance, all went well. The first time I saw the procedure it looked like it might be a hassle, but it really wasn't bad at all. Thanks again.

[Bill Jurgenson]

much different/more complicated than the procedure for changing the oil on any other bike I've owned.

You probably also never owned a motorcycle with a dry sump engine, either. Nowadays few and far between.

[DAVID THOMPSON]

if you had fun .. next time try one of the MZ bikes with the ROTAX MOTOR
made in the mid 90's like my saxon tour man what a mess i had first time with it.... dry sump also
ar dave

[OLDMTNCARVER]

Bill, Dave, come on guys lets hear some stories about your experiances with the "dry sump" systems for some "fun" or "not so fun" experiances / stories for education. My first could have been very expensive on a high performance german ride (NO COMMENT IT WAS A CAR! )
I lucked out and it taught me a very important lessons in the differents and the values of the systems

[DAVID THOMPSON]

good thing about dry sump is it gets heat out of engine fast

bad thing is external oil tanks leak
or the plumbing to and from tank leaks
also the ones in the frame that are near the fork neck bearings
cook the fork neck bearing grease and make the fork neck bearings need more service also gas tank gets too hot from covering frame tank

a buell blast is dry sump and 2 qts my first mod would be an oil cooler and fan if it does not have one already plus a bigger oil tank:-D

i dry sumped a vw engine in a 67 van and it ran a bunch cooler
but was very expensive to do as most of it was home made

my comment about rotax oil change in a post
http://www.mzriders.com/mz/viewtopic.php?t=865

[Bill Jurgenson]

high performance german ride (NO COMMENT IT WAS A CAR! Embarassed )

The only car I can think of right now, besides a Porsche, is an early 50ies 300SL. But that was only the racing version. The usual gull-wing has a normal wet-sump.


re oil change in the various dry-sump Yamaha singles:

It is a good idea to add about 1/2 quart right into the head thru the back, larger rockerarm cover. Only really necessary when the engine has been stripped, but if it was allowed to drain over nite, it won't do any harm, either.


My 54 BSA is also dry-sump like virtually all English bikes back then - and lots of others, too, like the German NSU Max. Many Italians, however, have a hybrid dry-sump.
They have a separate finned oil "pan" under the engine which is usually quite large. The bottom of the crankcase itself is usually closed except for a smallish drain hole to the pan below. The oilpump scavenges thru a pipe into a sieve on the bottom of the "pan". Others include the Motobi and Aermacchi flat singles. These have, unlike the Mondial, vertically split casings and the oil pan is not a separate part.
Ducatis were always "wet."
Attached below are a couple of pics.

[Rhino-1]

This should be a sticky

Doing the oil as soon as my battery comes in...