back fires

Black Panther/Street Moto, Baghira, Enduro, Mastiff, Skorpion Traveller and Tour.

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back fires

Postby RiverDrive » Fri Sep 17, 2004 8:42 am

Greetings,
I'm getting back fires out of my skorpion. The bike sat for 2 years so at first I thought it was a bad gas problem, but 1000 miles later it is still happening. An other quirk is, If I wack it on from idle the thing stalls. Any clues from more experienced 660 riders?
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Postby Whysub » Sat Sep 18, 2004 4:14 am

I lovebackfires-My Skopion and Baghira (both incidentally on standard endcans at the moment) do it on a trailing throttle, but not very loudly (at the moment).

backfiring is inherrent on any large single (a recent trip out with 40 supermotos of various manafacture showed this trait). However, if it backfires very frequently, then my money is on an air leak in the exhuast system somewhere-check that all pipe joints are pushed fully home and clamps are tightened fully.

Similarly, I would hazard a guess this goes for the opening up quickly and stalling-too much air. Again, either an exhaust leak, or theair screw on the carb needs adjusting. I am sure someone will be along soon with screw settings.
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Postby keithcross » Sat Sep 18, 2004 4:42 am

The stalling could be caused by the bike either running to lean or to rich. Take a good look at teh air filter, slow running jets, choke, and also check the inlet manifolds

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Postby RiverDrive » Sat Sep 18, 2004 10:48 am

If backfiring is inherent on large singles I'll just enjoy the sound effects. It pretty much happens as you described it. I commute though some pretty rough areas of Philadelphia. Places where gun play is not unheard of. It's kind of funny, the first time it happened I was in such a place. It scared the crap out of me!.
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Thanks Keith
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Postby -8- » Mon Sep 20, 2004 6:17 am

Same thing started on my bike last Thurs. I know it's probably not a good thing mechanically (exhaust leak) but it sounds SO FREAKIN AWSOME! I wasn't going to run it till I repaired it but I've got to hear that again! I really haven't had time to check it out but it looks like the exhaust flange clamp is off.

I am wondering what will happen if I run it more?

I'm going to try to record the ride on video and then post it here. Can I post Quicktime or avi files?
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Postby keithcross » Mon Sep 20, 2004 7:19 am

I used to diliberetly make my Baggi backfire by letting it run in gear with the engine kill switch in the off position. Open the throttle a bit and then put the kill switch back to run. The result was a big backfire. I thought it was real good, till I found out that this what was prob responsible for the tear in the right hand carb diapragm.

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Postby gedge » Mon Sep 20, 2004 8:31 am

keithcross wrote:I used to diliberetly make my Baggi backfire by letting it run in gear with the engine kill switch in the off position. Open the throttle a bit and then put the kill switch back to run. The result was a big backfire. I thought it was real good, till I found out that this what was prob responsible for the tear in the right hand carb diapragm.

Keith


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Broken stud on exhaust flange

Postby -8- » Wed Sep 22, 2004 7:01 pm

This a closeup of what's left of the stud. How do I go about replacing it? or would MZ cover it?
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stud.jpg
Inside stud on left side exhaust port.
stud.jpg (88 KiB) Viewed 5389 times
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exaust stud broken

Postby DAVID THOMPSON » Wed Sep 22, 2004 7:28 pm

looks like you need a good mech. thats been there done that

tool required is called an easyout

a small hole is drilled in the center of whats left of stud.... easyout tool is driven
in and remains are turned out as normal

i recomend you have a good machine shop do it

as this not a job for some one who uses the big hammer method
on things :(
here is a link
http://motorcyclecity.com/Tech_Tips/Bro ... t_Removal/
check it out
ar dave
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Postby -8- » Thu Sep 23, 2004 6:03 am

that's exactly what i needed to know. thanks david. i wish there was an mz dealer within 100 mi.
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Postby Whysub » Thu Sep 23, 2004 7:40 am

If you lan to do this yourself with an Easyout, be VERY CAREFUL. Many engineering companies will tell you of the hundreds of times they have had to remove broken easyouts from studs such as these...........

Would be easier and cheaper to go to a local engineering shop and offer them cash to remove it for you. With the right tools and knowledge, it is an easy, 2 minute job. Maybe cost would be £5 or so.

Personally I'd take it back to MZ, by my dealer is situated on my way in and out of work, so no problem. If he was 100kms away, I'd do the above.
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