Grimeca rear brake info

Black Panther/Street Moto, Baghira, Enduro, Mastiff, Skorpion Traveller and Tour.

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Grimeca rear brake info

Postby maxgain » Sun Oct 05, 2008 5:47 pm

Hi there,
Just after a quick bit of info regarding the rear Grimeca bleed nipple on my Skorpion Sport. Whilst attempting to bleed the brakes, I managed to round off the rear bleed nipple with a wring spanner. Now I will have to remove the banjo bolt to fit a socket over the nipple to replace it.

Firstly, anyone know if there is a generic replacement bleed nipple I can purchase. When re-assembling the banjo assy will I need to replace the washer between the Banjo and caliper. What would you re-torque the Banjo assy back too. And what would be the best method of re-filling the brake line with fresh fluid.

Managed to bleed the front caliper with no problems. Fluid in the rear caliper looks like syrup. A job I have wanted to complete since purchasing the bike a couple of years ago.

Stu
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Re: Grimeca rear brake info

Postby DAVID THOMPSON » Sun Oct 05, 2008 8:52 pm

the little washers that seal the hose to the master cyl on my saxon tour and rt125 are a Kawasaki part number
43067-001 washer-oil bolt used on a bunch of there models here in the usa
i think its a common brake part on bikes world wide for many brands

but at $9 usd for 3 of them not something you want to buy to often ...
dave

after rereading the post above .... i remembered there is a ktm that has a bleed screw in a bolt that holds on a hose
its a model from about 1998 but i do not know the model the shop i could ask closed last week and as usual
it was the best one in town

after looking at parts books on the internet i came up with this ktm number 60013020000
its seems to be a bleeder in a banjo bolt or hollow screw as they call it
may be what your looking for as it holds hose to rear caliper and also bleeds the system
dave
if it works you owe me a beer set it in front of one of your mates thats broke and thirsty
Dave 2002 MZ RT125+1995 Saxon Tour(500cc)
1997 MZ 660 Traveller+6/13/09 WV USA
"IN the end times the IDIOTS will be in charge
of everything"
"I like the road less traveled if it's PAVED!"
wd8cyv at yahoo dot com
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Re: Grimeca rear brake info

Postby Bill Jurgenson » Sun Oct 05, 2008 11:26 pm

but at $9 usd for 3 of them not something you want to buy to often ...


hu??
boyoboy! Not worth more than 10¢/piece.

it's just a common copper washer, nothing more and something any car garage should have. Aluminum washers are also used. no big deal. Besides, unless the washer is damaged, there is no reason why not to use it over again.
Standard for brake fittings is M10x1 but the most japanese stuff is M10x1.25. The Grimeca should be M10x1. Same as any Ducati for instance.
Torque? you kidding? Just use your common sense. And if you'd used that to begin with and taken a box wrench, you would not be where you are now.
Never use an open-end wrench (spanner for Brits) unless nothing else works; always use a straight box wrench where possible.
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Re: Grimeca rear brake info

Postby maxgain » Mon Oct 06, 2008 12:28 pm

Many thanks for the info guys. Will give me something to be going on with. Box spanner certainly would of been my first choice, if it would have fitted over the bleed nipple. Unfortunalty the bleed nipple is so close to the banjo that neither a box spanner or socket would fit over the nipple.
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Re: Grimeca rear brake info

Postby Linegeist » Mon Oct 06, 2008 12:58 pm

FWIW here, if your brake washers are of the copper variety and aren't sealing very well, you can carry out a process called 'annealing'.

Copper, like a number of alloys, hardens with work and age. This means that a nice new copper washer will readily deform under compression, squishing into the gap between banjo and reservoir/bolt, taking up any surface imperfection like a good gasket should, and making an airtight seal. However, as it gets old or is worked (flexed/stretched/compressed, the alloy gets harder (and brittle too) and so leaks can occur.

The way to make the alloy 'relax' once more is by using the annealing process.

All it requires is a decent blowlamp and a heatproof firebrick - place the washer(s) on the firebrick and heat them to cherry red (the washers not the brick, silly).

That's it! There's no need to chuck 'em in water or anything else - unless you're in a hurry in which case you can teach 'em to scuba dive if you want to - it makes no difference. When they're cool enough to handle, clean them gently (they'll now be soft (malleable) again) and use as normal.

Just thought I'd chuck that in ........... 8)
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Re: Grimeca rear brake info

Postby DAVID THOMPSON » Mon Oct 06, 2008 7:26 pm

bill
please note stepson needed to get a washing machine out of house... he came through my work shop
with it and moved a bunch of stuff ...i am looking for 2 small boxes of parts for the saxon tour
where the h*** he sat them is still a mystery....
dave
and yes i keep a junked up shop and if some one moves some thing i can not find it
yes its a mell of a hess
:smt040

but it will improve if i can ever get the saxon tour finished
Dave 2002 MZ RT125+1995 Saxon Tour(500cc)
1997 MZ 660 Traveller+6/13/09 WV USA
"IN the end times the IDIOTS will be in charge
of everything"
"I like the road less traveled if it's PAVED!"
wd8cyv at yahoo dot com
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