1000 de cat

[IlPrincipeBrutto]

I truly admire your ingenuity BM.
Don't know if it's possible at all, but it would be nice to have a video/sound file to hear the final result of your labour.

Ride Safe,

[GED]

I truly admire your ingenuity BM.
Don't know if it's possible at all, but it would be nice to have a video/sound file to hear the final result of your labour.

Ride Safe,

FILM IT AND STICK IT ON U TUBE PICTURES AND SOUND

[boilermaker]

Will try and do as requested when I find out how!

[boilermaker]

Just to keep you up to date, I am still wading through molasses as far as the Lambda sensor is concerned. The number on the factory fitted item is a Japan home market number and even the NGK europe man could not identify a positive equivalent in this country. Ian at Grahams motorcycles tells me that he is pursuing the same path and also a source of cheaper/better pencil coils. Maybe one of our American cousins/correspondents can have better luck? the NGK number on the sensor body is OTD-3J-5C1. The confusing aspect of the whole matter is that the wiring colours/colors are those of a Zircon probe, whilst the OTD prefix refers to a Titanate probe (I am told).

[boilermaker]

To all
More Molasses, the number that I gave in the last posting was incorrect. We are back to square 1 and the only reliable number on the sensor body itself being 05LS002. Also written on the cable shroud are SAGEM (the ECU manufacturer) and NTK Japan. The NGK UK man and I are proceeding on the ussumption that the sensor will be similar to the type used by Triumph on their SAGEM MC1000 equipped machines. It does not help that SAGEM no longer exist (now Johnston Controls Ltd) and MZ ditto. Jens Koerner would have been a great help here.

[boilermaker]

to all
Fially managed to get some photos of the cat removal procedure on to the photo gallery in the modern MZ section or members photo section. Give it a view if you are interested.

[tomtom]

See what you mean about being restrictive. Looks more like a furred up water pipe.

[mzsrus]

hi all,

can anyone explain whats the diff without the cataltyic convertors?

and cant you just buy/make new exhausts like John up in midlands, he has had a pair of exhausts made for under £500 i think anf omg its loud as my remus race cans and goes like the stink, well off the clock,

bfn miserable andy in brecon beacons where its raining on my first day off in 14 days and mz dont go out in rain

byeeeeeeeeeeee

now stuck on 14 mz, need another old pre 70 one to buy

[mzsrus]

hi all,

can anyone explain whats the diff without the cataltyic convertors?

and cant you just buy/make new exhausts like John up in midlands, he has had a pair of exhausts made for under £500 i think and omg its loud as my remus race cans and goes like the stink, well off the clock,

bfn miserable andy in brecon beacons where its raining on my first day off in 14 days and mz dont go out in rain

byeeeeeeeeeeee

now stuck on 14 mz, need another old pre 70 one to buy

[GED]

cats ,cause a loss in power and a decrease in fuel economy,will be removing mine when i get a week off work

[GED]

to all
Fially managed to get some photos of the cat removal procedure on to the photo gallery in the modern MZ section or members photo section. Give it a view if you are interested.

george ,in your opinion ,how possible is it to remove the cats without cuting the pipe in half,in other words to try and drill/ chisel them out bit by bit,

[tomtom]

boilermakers pics

[boilermaker]

Tom/ged
Thanks for uploading photos,
Ged The one photo that is not on this string (look in gallery) is the one showing you that the catalyst is in a length of straight pipe with reducing cones at both ends, so I did not cut the pipe in half but cut off one of the reducing cones (concentric/eccentric reducers in pipefitting parlance). If you make the cut as close as possible (or even through) the weld connecting the outer cone to the cat chamber you will have a fair thickness for the re-weld, and the cut will not go through the matrix (possibly causing toxic dust to arise) Although the reducer should be reasonably concentric on one cat, it is offset on the other, so it is imperative to witness mark the items before cutting. Use the thinnest slitting disc or narrow blade power hacksaw maintaining constant pressure throughout the cut (it is stainless). Then find a friend with a TIG set and some 316L filler wire and get him to weld the ends back on when you have removed ALL TRACES of the matrix.

[tomtom]

photo boilermaker refers to
You can buy stainless steel cutting discs for an angle grinder which are really thin at toolstation/screwfix

DSCF2508.JPG (68.54 KiB) Viewed 8240 times

What do you do at mot time, boilermaker, if you don't have a cat now

[boilermaker]

tom
As far as I know machines of the age of mine (2006) are not subject to emission tests.