1000S/ST/SF

[LWS66]

Hi Gary,

I got it thru MotorcycleSuperstore.com $272 shipped. Dennis Kirk also has them listed, they will beat any others price by a buck. There are a couple Ebay store sources also, but slightly more$$. Only problem I had installing was the Power Commander harness sockets that attach to the fuel injectors needed to be filed down on one side a little, they hit the side of the injector and would'nt plug in. No big deal otherwise. It comes with an "advanced" map for each cylinder for a stock bike. The map tables show significant changes from 1500-5000 rpm, and changes up to 10000 rpm. I plan on taking it to the Ducshop over in Georgia to have them set it up as soon as I find some free time. I hope they are able to come up with a good map for it....

[millgreen]

Lorin
I have the race map that we develope for the Moto-st, it was last upgraded at Daytona in 07,might be a little strong for street use. Used open air box with a K&N filter and open 2 into 1 exhaust about 115 rwhp.
Bill

[LWS66]

Hi Bill,

What kind of torque readings were you getting with that setup? I've got a drilled lid with removed vanes and smoothed underside. K&N filter w/the Sebring Twisters using the stock headpipes w/catalysts and have thought about either cutting the cats out as some here have mentioned doing (might be more work than I want to do though) or just drilling/cutting the cores out. Worried about loosing too much backpressure and thus torque, so may just leave them in and set it up without the baffles in perhaps. I can see dyno time may be costly.......I think maximum torque is what I'm ultimately after, but max hp is good too. The map you've got may be to rich all around for what I've got?

Lorin

[cam]

Hi guys,
we're still doing battle with the tuneboy software and will keep you posted on the outcome. i've recently added a synchromate electronic balancer to our diagnostic collection and have found that larger hoses and 'T' pieces than those included are needed to do the job. I'll let you know if its worth the money. TTFN

[johnny2tents]

Hi Cam/Zedhead,
Any news to report on tuneboy/remapping etc? Regards J2T

[f-4]

Hi Guys,

Just found the forum after two years of MZ 1000S ownership. My pride & joy:



2004 plate, only done 8,000 miles when I stumbled across it in a dealer - had no idea what it was, but at £2,500 couldn't resist!

Great bike, really love its blend of quality, sportiness and enough power on Lincolnshire roads. The reason I've been searching the net is the ECU light has decided to stay on - came up with '354' briefly before behaving itself again. I've just reassembled the bike after getting a cracked exhaust welded - as you know it meant water cooler off and drained. I took the opportunity to check the plugs at the same time.

Thing is, is the ECU just playing silly buggers after putting it back together? I'm tempted to see how it goes for a while, but as dealers are like hen's teeth not sure what to do next! - Edit - Just found out 354 means 'dry battery', so not too serious!


Gary

[boilermaker]

Gary
The ecu warning light can stay on for a number of reasons but can be cancelled by a standard fault code reader. If it comes on again of course then there is something wrong.
There is a huge quantity of info from a number of well informed contributors on this site. Where was the exhaust cracked?

[f-4]

Where was the exhaust cracked?

Underneath where a couple of connector pipes are - was cracked half way round. £10 weld has cured it. I guess it's a sympton of the sometime excessive vibration!

[LWS66]

One thing you/others may want to do to reduce the chances of stress cracks is to loosen "all" the exhaust bolts/nuts, and remove the center exhaust rubber bushing underneath the bike. Readjust the pipes so they are in final position with no stress on them once the fasteners are re-tightened. Then measure the distance between the mounting tabs (for the center rubber bushing) and either reduce the bushing or add washers to fill the difference (I had to add about 3/16" on mine)
Then loosen everything up again, install the bushing/washers, and snug everything back up as before. I've got over 34000 miles on mine with no issues yet (knock on wood ) after doing this simple adjustment

[LWS66]

Gary,

If you disconnect any engine related connector and turn on the igntion, the check engine light will come on and stay on for awhile. It will go out after a few running cycles and some miles (I'm sure there is info somewhere on exactly how long the light remains on after repaired/reconnected..but I have'nt found it) Always make sure when working on the bike to reconnect everything before turning the key on.

[f-4]

Thanks - 100 mile run today saw the ECU light go off.

Here's a pic of the repair to the exhaust - not pretty, but effective!

[boilermaker]

Gary
Lorins advice is good for stress cracks. The reason that I asked where it was cracked was because the other cause of cracking on this system is a cooked catalyst (see other threads on catalysts) be aware, do not ride this machine on one cylinder as a get-you-home should you suffer a plug/plug coil failure.

[IlPrincipeBrutto]

Hi F-4,

I've got one just like yours, a 2006 model bought new. My exhaust cracked too, but on the other pipe, when the bike had done about 6000 miles. I had it welded (it cost me 80 quid, but I suppose that's London for you) and has given me no problem since (I'm on 20K miles now). Hopefully yours will do the same.

Ride Safe,

IPB

[SlipperySam]

Orange SF currently on an Isle of Man registration hoping to import it into France when it has 6000 k on the clock.

[boilermaker]

Sam
Is that the Orange SF from the dealers in Somerset?