New MZ Baghira 660 owner!

[billr]

1: I still have a problem with the light throttle stuff, especially in 1st/2nd in parking lots. 2: I don't mind the noise, I only worry about the surging at low throttle.

Gotta remember that these bikes do not like low revs. Mine idles and runs great, but if I try to waddle along in 1st or 2nd at low revs(around 2-2.5k rpm), it's surge city.
More of a bump and jump due to the gears in this motor.
Now if you're going along with the engine turning 4k rpm and you get a surge or drop in engine speed...

And the popping on an aftermarket can...you'll have to increase the pilot size.
Reading up on setting carbs, I found this advice:
Pilot screw in to fully seated, turn out 3 full turns, warm up the bike and set idle speed to specs.
Blip the throttle and adjust the pilot until there is no hesitation in engine response.
If you have to go in less than 2 turns out, you need a smaller pilot jet.
If you have to go out over 4 turns out, you need a larger jet.

Kinda makes sense and keeps the pilot needle in a "usable" adjustment range.

Bill R

[chisleu]

Yep, that sounds right. I really need a tachometer on this thing so I can tell what is going on. Can anyone recommend one? on my phone now, but when I get home I will do some searching.

[chisleu]

Yes, confirmed that the Acerbis large lid fits perfectly on my 1999 (others had said it potentially fit on other models, but I couldn't find a part number or confirmation.)

It's their Universal Large cap, part number 2070749999

They also have a locking version, part number 2070769999

[chisleu]

I pulled the carb last night (only took 35m to pull and another 10 to install the jet!!! much faster the 2nd time around.)

After getting it back together this morning: (To control my temper, I work on machines in small doses. )

The popping is almost gone. I have the carb 5 turns out and this is plenty enough reduction in popping for me (there are only very quiet pops, and if I had some sort of baffle or db-killer installed, I'm sure they would be inaudible.)

However I noticed on the test ride that if I use the front brake and it causes the bike to rock forward when coming to a stop, the engine seems to flood. It tries to die and needs more throttle to make it come back. If it stalls, I have to crank with the throttle cracked open.

I'm going to try to turn the screw back a turn and see what happens. I really hope I'm not stuck between stalling engines and popping noises or I'll have to get another exhaust to try to help with the popping. I find this one too loud anyway.

[chisleu]

*SOLVED*

Not sure what is causing these two issues. When I come to a stop (no throttle, clutch squeezed, brakes only), and if the bike rocks too hard forward as I come to a stop, the bike acts like it wants to flood. What could be causing this? I turned the screw in 1 turn (now 4, from 5) and the popping is even less than it was at 5. Maybe it's still too rich and puddling fuel?

Also I have a problem with returning to idle. Sometimes the bike will high idle. The mechanical part of the TB does return to idle properly (taps the adjustment screw.) If I let the clutch out to bring down the rpms, the rpms stay low at the correct idle.

EDIT: I have a problem where the throttle isn't returning all the way closed. If I twist the throttle grip forward it stops high idling as well. I finally got that part figured out at least. Not sure what is causing it. I'm still trying to figure out how these two adjustments work at the grip, and where exactly this spring is.

The idle air screw was adjusted so far below the carb's physical limit that even if I returned the throttle to that point, it would have died. Also I believe the carb plunger was sticking. I removed and cleaned it again, then lubed it with some baby butt lube (A&D ointment).

Everything seems to be kicking ass now although it's popping on decell again. I think I need to check and reset the pilot as I leaned it out a bit. Maybe I need 5-6 turns out after all.

[nopantsflyer]

bike tries to stall, maybe the float level in the carb is set too high, high idle you can bring it down with clutch, sounds like an air leak, maybe worth checking, michael

[nopantsflyer]

i had carb issues, after i checked the valve clearance and corrected it, all the popping was gone, pilot screw 2 turns out, michael

[chisleu]

i had carb issues, after i checked the valve clearance and corrected it, all the popping was gone, pilot screw 2 turns out, michael

Yeah, valves are next. I was assured that they were done recently when I bought the bike, but who knows for sure.

The popping comes and goes with fuel, but that doesn't mean it's not a valve problem.

[chisleu]

I went on a long ride (for me) today, 100mi round trip, all highway.

It started cutting out again when I would try to hold 70mph in an upright position. If I tuck in, I can maintain 70mph.

The ability to go 70-80mph was the reason I went with this bike over a smaller displacement bike.

I guess I need to pull the carb off for the 3rd time. I'm going to check that screen filter and see if I can flush anything out, then check and raise the float level slightly, then install a fuel filter to make sure there is nothing coming from the tank.

Booooooooo. I'm tired of pulling that carb off. It's such a pain to get in and out.

[chisleu]

Still having that occasional problem with 65+ mph. It just seems to run out of fuel at that speed. I am going to clean the tank filter and put an inline filter. I think I caught some bad gas from a stupid head gas station operator who is now closed. He ran his tanks dry when going out of business and I got the junk at the bottom of the tank.

Anyways, my turbo muffler is just a little bit too big. It can occasionally rub the tire in full compression, which is unacceptable. It is quiet, and it does hurt power which I've come to find to be unacceptable as well.

We fit the chain and sprockets yesterday. We just need to use the tool to link the chain and adjust the tire, then button everything up. Should be quick to finish up tomorrow.

So I ordered a new exhaust.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-10414

It's 2" in and out, 14" body (like my current turbo muffler) but it's a 4" diameter instead of 6" which should keep it off the tire. I ordered a 4" clamp and a 4.5" mandrel bend to use as a turn down on it so it's not blasting the motorcyclist directly behind me. It will certainly be louder than this thing (which is almost too quiet) but it should sound good (magnaflow!!! LOVE THEM!) and I should pick up 95% of the power I lost (the turndown and 2.5" core diameter might end up costing .5hp or something in that range.)

I'm just hoping I can fit it without fabbing a new hanger bracket.