Ignition trigger went bad ?

[Srinath]

I think my ignition trigger died. The coil is sparking there is gas and everythign else, in fact it ran 200 miles last week, and ran 40 miles after a fill up only to stall as I closed the throttle. It started back up after it got fully cold and died 5 mins later. It had spark.

These symptoms seem to mirror my GS500's but it lost 1 cyl first, and for a long time it would work when cold and cut out when it got warm and you dropped the revs below 4-5K.
Anyway has anyone had a crank trigger go on one of these ? where are they available and how much. Raptor parts fiche seems to have it and the ignition stator in 1 part. Is that my only option ?

Thanks.
Srinath.

[DAVID THOMPSON]

my traveller had a loose spade connector on the coil gave me fits one day
lucky me i was about 100 meters from the house down hill all the way

about 90 % of my mz problems have been poor electrical connectors and wires
all of them are getting old
found the wires had fell off the horn on the rt125 they just broke off the spades..
where they crimp on
the quality of the wires used is not very good
DAVE

[Srinath]

OK worth a shot for sure. I'll check it tomorow.
The reason I thought it was that pulse coil was that the bike used to clunk from the left side, so I concluded in a mass of ratting parts somehow the pulse coil has had enough.
Cool.
Srinath.

[Bill Jurgenson]

I seriously doubt the pickup is bad. I have never seen this.
But the ignition box could be on the way out. I have experienced this several times.
Borrow a known good one to try.
The harness of the MZ really is bad news. starting with the plug in the pickup lead, check every plug and connector, especially that nuisance sidestand switch.
Don't confuse problems with the harness and original Yamaha parts like the pickup, however.
Raptor generator and ignition parts do not fit and the ignitionwill not work because it is not the same type.

[mincehead]

I think my ignition trigger died. The coil is sparking there is gas and everythign else, in fact it ran 200 miles last week, and ran 40 miles after a fill up only to stall as I closed the throttle. It started back up after it got fully cold and died 5 mins later. It had spark.

These symptoms seem to mirror my GS500's but it lost 1 cyl first, and for a long time it would work when cold and cut out when it got warm and you dropped the revs below 4-5K.
Anyway has anyone had a crank trigger go on one of these ? where are they available and how much. Raptor parts fiche seems to have it and the ignition stator in 1 part. Is that my only option ?

Thanks.
Srinath.

Could be that the pick up is being compromised by engine heat, one of my other bikes gave me the exact same problem (Yamaha) and it was the pick-up.
Although I`m with Bill it`s not a common problem to encounter.

[Srinath]

My MZ had the plug to the ignition coil come loose last year, took me 6 months to figure out what was wrong when it wouldn't start.

Anyway does any other trigger pickup fit the skorpion ?

Thanks.
Srinath.

[mincehead]

Well yes, all the Yamaha varients of the 660 engine and I`m guessing the TDM / TRX will be the same too.
A good company, resource in the UK:

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog ... s_160.html

Even if it`s not there you could ring them and ask.

[Srinath]

Raptor pulsar coil - ebay has em for 25 bucks shipped.
However wouldn't you know it, mine I think is OK - or not. I'll post it here and let you tell me.

The pickup is intact physically, which was my first fear. OK so now when I brush past it with a magnetic screwdriver, it makes an ac voltage. A flash of voltage and back to 0.
When I brush past it with the magnetic screw driver, its resistance stays the same. Open. However if I make contact with it with the magnetic screw driver, it flashes to a lower value.

What does the ignitor box read from it.

Then the ignitor box itself - man that thing has 1 transistor and a few caps and resistors and an IC, that IC contorls the advance curve I am nearly sure. The starting etc is that transistor, which leads me to believe it could be bad, and it also means we can replace it rather easily with a substitute, easy and cheap.

So has anyone tested theirs, my transistor tester was a bit iffy on it, I may ahve to pull it from the circuit to do a better test.

I think I should put up pics of this ... maybe tonight.

Cool.
Srinath.

[Bill Jurgenson]

excuse my candidness: leave well enuf alone if you don't know how it works.

It is an inductive pickup and - yup - it makes an AC wave for each narrow nose on the flywheel, those at 3, 6, and 9 oclock. The longer signal made by the long nose from 11 to 12 "tells" the Cpu where TDC is. the 9 nose is the actual trigger. The pickup has two leads, + & - , and if the are exchanged the Box does not work. The box interrupts minus to the coil which is a normal high voltage coil just like in a car.
this not a CDI, there is no pulsar coil. This is a plain old ordinary battery ignition like any 50 year old distributor car ignition.
Raptor parts do not work. XT and SRX parts do not work.

[djsbriscoe]

Ah, so it's just a transistor switch. Should be easy enough to test with simple light bulb from coil to ground (bulb on, transistor off). It won't be much good for testing the reliability when the engine is running though. Only proper way is with a pickup (or direct feed from the sensor itself or the low side switch (transistor)) and a digital storage oscilloscope. But surely if the engine is running the ignition trigger IS working. If this is the case I would leave well enough alone (unless you are certain of what your doing-do plenty of research first). Too many other variable to consider first.

David.

[Srinath]

I think a trigger that fits in that spot, could be swapped in if we were to swap the ignitor box for that particulat vehicle too, however advance curve could be different. However a raptor 660 ignitor likely wont be too different ...
Cool.
Srinath.

[Srinath]

excuse my candidness: leave well enuf alone if you don't know how it works.

It is an inductive pickup and - yup - it makes an AC wave for each narrow nose on the flywheel, those at 3, 6, and 9 oclock. The longer signal made by the long nose from 11 to 12 "tells" the Cpu where TDC is. the 9 nose is the actual trigger. The pickup has two leads, + & - , and if the are exchanged the Box does not work. The box interrupts minus to the coil which is a normal high voltage coil just like in a car.
this not a CDI, there is no pulsar coil. This is a plain old ordinary battery ignition like any 50 year old distributor car ignition.
Raptor parts do not work. XT and SRX parts do not work.

Like a car you say ... Could I use a car ignition box ? There have been many of those, gm and ford ignitions in bikes, GPZ750's, xs650's, virago's etc etc.
All the horror yamaha's have had GM sei ignition box mods alive and well on various fora.

Cool.
Srinath.

[Bill Jurgenson]

you can be pretty sure the pickup is OK and it is easy to test:
unplug the lead, take out the plug, hook up a good voltmeter and turn the engine over with the starter.
The Denso ignition box does not have a very good reputation (neither does the installed rectifier) but as long as it works and no tuning has been done it will do.
I had one, that would dependably start up when cold - the colder the better - but by the time I had gone maybe a mile it quit.

Forget the Raptor entirely as source for ignition parts. It uses a true CDI.
How often do I have to restate this.

[mincehead]

Morning Bill.
Are you still selling the SilentHenktik (spelling) ignition system? If so can you tell me how a computer luddite such as myself would get on with setting one up, is it relatively easy?
Regards.


By the way members some reading:

http://www.dansmc.com/cdiignition.htm

[Bill Jurgenson]

I never sold any SilentHektik ignition and they do not make anything that will work with the flywheel pickup of XTZ engine. I used SH ignitions for both my racer and the Laverda which does not belong to me but neither of those even have a flywheel. I do recommend their Solocoil together with a decent silicon plug lead such as a BERU PowerCable R118-060 (cat.Nº.0302 10D 033). BERU belongs to BorgWarner and is OEM for VW and Ford and BMW so it should not be all that hard to find. There is the same type of cable from Delco.

I do sell the TCIP4 Sparker from Ignitech.
from me plug and play, from them it needs to be programmed to work.
This has been thoroughly thrashed recently and farther back.
You guys over there in the US should get the act together and order them in quantity directly. I will gladly supply the mapping free of charge.
Getting tired of of continually repeating myself.