1000ST engine cutting out

[martha]

Hi all, I am a newbie here though I have owned my 1000ST from new in late '2007. Unfortunately it has done very few miles (probably less than 4000; - not sure how many exactly as it had two new instrument clusters under warranty owing to a bizarre failure which caused the hazards to randomly flash...) as a result of too many toys and spending too much time working. It has developed an intermittent recurring fault whereby the engine will cut without warning, usually as I decelerate to a halt at a junction. The engine always re-starts, though it will occasionally cut out again almost immediately before re-starting successfully straight afterwards. The start delay relay appears to be working correctly as it needs the two second delay before I can restart once it has stopped. I get no warnings coming up on the instruments (just the usual for a non running engine with the ignition on) and I don't have to go through any special action to get it to restart - just press the start button. The side stand etc switches work correctly in their normal function.

I have got a fault code reader on order, but in the meantime has anyone experienced and solved the same problem or can anyone suggest what to look at/clean. I should add that I have been riding, maintaining and rebuilding bikes for well over thirty years so I am quite happy to get in amongst it, it's just a case of help on where to get started!

Many thanks
Alex

[MJ310]

Hi Alex, is this fault happening on a hot or cold engine, i had a simular fault 2 years ago on a hot engine which turned out to be a coil which finally failed completly.
You are just down the road from me, I am in North Somerset.

[martha]

Hi MJ310
It has happened both on a hot and a cold engine. I have been working my way through the likely forum threads and was coming to the conclusion that the coils were a possibility. When it cuts out it is as if the ignition has been cut to both cylinders; just as if you had turned off at the ignition switch. If it was a coil problem I would have expected it to maybe stutter as the second cylinder tried to keep the engine turning? Recognising that there is very little flywheel effect I guess that it is quite possible that on a closed throttle and a deceleration fuel setting there is insufficient energy from the remaining cylinder to keep the engine running. I noted that there is a potential problem discussed in one of the coil threads relative to wires by the engine sprocket, so I thought that I ought to have a look at that too. Were the symptoms that you experienced the same as I am getting? I should maybe check through the remaining threads to find the optimum coil and lay in a couple of replacements considering the mileage I have done and the regular failures that are reported...
I noticed that the fault code reader is waiting for me at the post office, but I get home too late to get it in the week so further detailed investigation will have to wait till the weekend.
Including yourself, I now know of three 1000s in the area, though I guess that with Graham's so close it is to be expected!

Thanks

Alex

[boilermaker]

Alex
Wait until the fault code reader tells its tale. There are now four 1000s/sf/st in the Somerset/Devon area so you will not be stuck for help.

[MJ310]

Alex, the engine will run on 1 cylinder but as yours cuts out completly on both it's a little different to my fault. When you get a code put it on the site, i have a factory manual and can tell you what it is. There at least 5 MZ's in the SW as I have seen another orange SF in minehead and Taunton last year. We actually got 3 together at westrnzoyland a while back.

[martha]

Just a quick update... Got the fault code reader, loaded the software into the PC and connected it all up to the bike. Not totally surprised when I got the message that there were no logged fault codes - ho hum I guess it will have to be a 'clean and re-make' around all of the electrical connectors at the weekend. Intermittent type failures can be a real pain to track down, so I am not expecting to actually find out what it is that I do that cures it unless it becomes a 'hard' failure that I can then work on. Whatever, it will be the weekend before I can spend a decent amount of time on it. I'll keep you posted, but it may well be a few days.
MJ310 - Other than at Graham's I have never seen so many 1000s together as you got at Weston Zoyland! Mine is a blue ST and the other ST in Yeovil has been done in a blue/silver scheme like the original press release shots.

[DAVID THOMPSON]

my rt125 and 660 traveller have suffered from electrical plug problems
on the 660 the spade lugs fall off where there plugged into
on the rt125 the whole connector for the voltage reg just turned in to powder
like it got too hot and did not burn but turned to a white power
and the tail lamp socket grounding lug came loose and shorted out blowing fuse
when i stepped on brake...
dave

[LWS66]

Have you opened up the switch housing on the right handlebar and checked the wire connections at the run/start buttons? Checked the wiring connections at the ignition switch? With that low mileage I'd be looking at broken solder/crimp connections, and/or if ridden in the wet or possibley having soaked the electrical components when washing there may be corrosion on the contacts vs. there being actual component failure. These bike are pretty rugged, but as I've found, the wiring harness internal wire lengths and connections at the switch gear are not the best. The wires at a few connections were under strain, they were too short, and the wire broke at the termination repeatedly until I soldered in extra length. Something to ponder.

Lorin

[boilermaker]

Martha
I agree with Lorin re the short cable runs. This is especially important on the ST as it has (I think) the highest Handlebar set up.

[DAVID THOMPSON]

quality of wire loom has been a problem on my rt125
the routing of the rear turn signals was bad
they were so tight you could play music on them
before i re routed them
dave

[boilermaker]

Having had starter switch problems in the past I fitted a Bosch sealed marine type push button starter switch to my fairing just below the handlebar position. I will attempt to send a photo asap.

[martha]

I can't help but think that I am rather overdue on giving an update; sorry it's been a while and thanks for all of the input. Holiday, work and getting a new pup have all reduced my free time for playing in the garage.
I went through all of the obious connections that could contribute to a problem (and all of the areas that are mentioned by other contributors to this thread) but found nothing untoward - other than as has been mentioned elsewhere the wiring strung to middle C in a few places, which I relieved as best I could. Essentially all I did was pull apart, clean and put back together each of the connectors in turn. Since then I have done around 250 miles without any problems - if anything it seems to be running a little more 'cleanly' than before, but that could be a case of absence making the heart grow fonder. However, knowing how fussy some digital systems can be to the quality of connections, I can only surmise that there was one or more connection that had a resistance that was close to the limit that than the ECU fault management could cope with and cleaning helped to put everything back into its accepted range. Hopefully it will continue to behave itself! Once again, thanks for all of the suggestions and if it re-occurs I will post my continuation of the tale!