New To MZ, New Baghira Project

[DAVID THOMPSON]

i love this stuff its how i paint bikes i am making into daily drivers

Dupli-Color spray-on bedliner ($10 per can at your auto store) will get those plastics looking good and ruggedly handsome too. LOL.

got a bmw in the shop its been under rebuild for years ..as i finish a painted piece it gets a coat of sanded buffed
Dupli-Color spray-on bedliner in BLACK looks good and takes a beating

dave

[Lifeislarge]

It's obviously been a while since I posted on this thread but I thought I'd give an update on my progress. Work has been kicking my ass for the last three months and I haven't had too much time to put into the bike. Since my last post I've gotten a few things done and hope to have it almost complete (ish) in the next few weeks. I replaced the busted plastic coolant tee with a brass unit from the Home Depot, replaced the chain (and actually rode the thing around the block a few times!!!), Removed and repainted the rear sub-frame for the seat and rear fender assembly and started on restoring the plastics. It's a good thing I pulled the frame and airbox because it gave me an opportunity to inspect all the wiring which lead me to a pretty gnarly connector for the regulator. This is probably one of the reasons the bike wasn't charging too well (duh). I was thinking about re-routing the oil line that runs down between the intake boots, what a POS place to put it. Anyone done this or am I just being a whiner?

The plastics are coming out pretty good, I use Mothers aluminum rim polish on some 0000 steel wool and it takes off all the oxidation leaving a nice clean smooth plastic behind. Finish off with some McGuires Wax/cleaner and it looks pretty good. I still have the fork tubes and seals to deal with, the spokes, and a final tune on the carb plus whatever else creeps up.

Can anyone post a pic of the air filter mount? My bike came with an empty box underneath the seat and I can't find any info on the OEM setup. I'm sure I can rig something up if need be but I'd really rather source something out and be done with it. Can't really tune the carb without filters.

I'm on the home stretch now and really looking forward to having a "bug out bike" ready and willing in the garage.

[malachi]

here ya go

[OLDMTNCARVER]

Just to add a thought and some more pictures.
The filter is used by ktm so it would stand to reason that the filters support frame might be also.
If you look at the top of the rear mud guard, where it attaches to the rear of the air box you'll see KTM and made in Italy...

[OLDMTNCARVER]

Placement of the filter and support is managed by a recess / recepticle at the bottom rear of the air box and the top hooks through the eye bolt supported by a by a nut and washer on one side and a nyloc and flange on the other.

[Lifeislarge]

Awesome pics guys, thanks. Gives me somewhere to start. I'll look into the KTM side of things. I'll try and post some updated pics soon.

[OLDMTNCARVER]

Purchased from my local KTM dealer.
The same as Edec on the first page of this thread, shared the numbers.

Twin Air KTM.JPG (83.21 KiB) Viewed 6138 times

[Lifeislarge]

Alright I'm almost done, or at least as done as I plan to be. All I need now is both the brake and clutch levers, the air filter cage and support, a speedo cable and a rad cap. Any thoughts or ideas? I would really prefer to source these things in the US if at all possible, but I'm thinking that the filter cage is going for a cruise.... I got the forks clean and the seals replaced yesterday and have only the front fender and headlight shroud to polish and install. The spokes are either going to have to wait, or become the future owners concern. I'm wondering how much difference having the proper filter installed will have on tuning the carbs, as it dies out pretty quick when I step off the seat and it gets more air. I currently have the pilot set at 4.5 turns out and really don't want to mess with it anymore until I have the rest of the intake put together. As it is now, I can get the front wheel up while rolling in first gear but it cuts out at high RPM (no tach?????). Is there a rev limiter built into the CDI or do I have yet another issue to diagnose? My local bike shop owner told me today when I went in to match up the levers and other bits (to no avail) that I should move to Europe and take the thing with me. I'm thinking a large crate and no return address..... As always, your help is greatly appreciated.

[Lifeislarge]

So this is what it looks like now. The spokes are driving me nuts just because I can't stand rust on any of my bikes. I still haven't been able to find an air filter assembly that'll work or new levers. It's still rideable with the levers that are on there and it runs okay without the air filter but I'm always sketchy about doing such things. The only thing stopping me from keeping this thing around is my damn 30" inseam. Once going its all fun but at a light and moving it around, it sucks out loud. I'm thinking about recovering the seat, replacing the rear brake rotor, get a new front tire (dry rotted and cracked) and that would be it. Found three blown bulbs in the speedo cluster and replaced them today, now I have neutral and high beams. Also replaced the speedo cable that was frayed (discovered when I did the fork seals). Anyone ever found a replacement for the plastic gear in the speedo hub? I noticed that it's starting to crack when I cleaned and greased it. Other than that, nothing else to do until I source some parts.

[Lifeislarge]

So I finally got sick of trying to find the elusive air filter cage and decided to make my own.

I only had pictures from this thread to go by but I think I was able to produce a reasonable facsimile.

I guess that I'll find out once I procure an air filter. The pics don't show it really well but I did build in the slope although in looking at the pics again I think the top oval is a bit bigger than the OEM. I may end up doing it again as I made it really quick and the welds are ugly. Or, who cares....

[BigDog702]

Hello,
Still having fun with the Baggy ?
They are tuff on the Vertically Challenged !
Alot of the euro bikes are tall.
I have a Baggy, I'm always looking for parts ??
I know it's tuff to Deal with the MZ's.
Most older euro makes.
Say, If you ever want to sell, Please keep me in mind.
LarryStorm503@Gmail.Com
Las Vegas, Nv.

[handsomejackuk]

check my post on the wheels... a quick fix for the spokes would be heatshrink over the rusty spokes... i lelected to change out all the rusty ones for stainless steel items. theres a few pics on my threads but heres one for you....





cost me about £6 for the heatshrink... just remove a nipple on each spoke, and thread the heatshrink down, and get a heatgun to shrink it down voila...

instant clean wheels..

[BigDog702]

Cover the Rusty Spokes !
Your NUTS!
Rusty Spokes are Dangerous !
What's your Body or Life Worth ?
Get the Stainless ! Worth every /cent !

[harold]

I was able to lower mine around 2" without affecting handling. You do have to cut your kick stand down, and re-weld a bottom plate if you park in the dirt.

[handsomejackuk]

Cover the Rusty Spokes !
Your NUTS!
Rusty Spokes are Dangerous !
What's your Body or Life Worth ?
Get the Stainless ! Worth every /cent !

hey.....

hang on we are not talking like major rust... the rusty spokes were spun up in a pillar drill, and polished up with autosol, so not like they were completely knakud....

i simply replaced the spokes that were too bad to polish the rest were fine...