baggy 660 carb tune kit

[breakwellmz]

Hi

As you probably know,it`s the pillars you have to get the heat into.

They will expand due to heat more than the pin that runs through them.It will take a little while to get enough heat in to them with a regular soldering iron i suspect.

It would also break down any locking compound that MAY have been used

Good luck

[den]

So i Wrote to 6sigmajetkit again and gave them a few details and finally got a replie--heres what they said--

Dear den,


Yes we can build a kit for your black panther 660 2003 . We custom build each kit to the bike. The sizing and settings are different for each kit, based on the bike, modifications, and operating altitude. To ensure that your kit is built promptly please specify your year, model, modifications and operating altitude, in the Notes to Seller after you checkout.

Kit Includes: Main Jets, Needle Adjusters, Nylon Spacers, Drill Bits, Slide Hole mod (with CV carb), Idle Mixture mod, Slide Spring Mod (with CV carb), Carb Schematic, Specifications, Carb Sync Tool build, Carb Cleaning Procedure, Proper Tuning Techniques, and step by step instructions with photos.

I could pay the money and fit the kit easily but i dont want to,I still have that feeling there just gonna send me a few jets and a note says drill here ,fit here,clean here ect ect ,,£40 isnt alot of cash but its mine and i dont wanna part with it That easily ,

so , Can we all put our heads together and figure out how we can duplicate what there offering for cheaps,
ps
Why is it sooo important for them to know the altitude?? or is it scaremongary,,surly they should know uk averages 97000 mtrs

[edfmaniac]

For the record folks, you can get the pin on the float out without using a hammer or temperature. Just get a nice pair of locking needle nose pliers, set them so they are pretty tight when you clamp on, and then twist the pin out gently. You'll leave your mark on the pin but there's plenty of room and that's much better than risking the alternative. I've had mine out several times now using that method and it works great.

[den]

So here goes with the carb tune thing ,,I saw this thread somewhere here and copied what it said..

carb modifications.
The mixture screw gets backed out(holeshot performance recommends 7 1/2 turns out from lightly seated),
the main jet isn't adjustable, you replace the 130 main jet from the left side (as you're sitting on the bike)carb with a Kehin 135 and screw it in all the way tight.
The mid range jet needles (both sides) get raised 1 notch, (this means the circlip goes in the second groove from the pointy end)
cut 2 coils from the constant velocity slide spring (right side)and re-install cut side down.
Be sure to line up the diaphragm correctly, there is a little tab on the edge of it that fits into a recess cast into the top of the carb.
At low altitude (below 5000 feet), you can drill the right carb's main jet with a #51 drill bit, just twist it between your fingers," I did not drill this out "
no need for the drill press and re-install with a new P/N 90-20.142 crush washer.
For around town riding this last step isn't really necessary,
you'll foul plugs more often and you should definitely keep a stock main jet (P/N 90-20.146) handy if you plan on doing any riding up in the mountains.
The sync screw on top of the carb bank controls the point after the low speed carb carb starts opening that the high speed carb begins to open,
crank it in a turn or two so that as you twist the grip, you'll feel the freeplay take up,
then the low speed carb start to open, then the added resistance of the high speed carb opening.
You want the high speed carb to open just after the low speed opens,
without as much of a delay as with the stock setting.
This obviously needs to be set with the carbs installed on the bike before the gas tank is replaced.
Lastly, if your bike is a Skorpion (Sport, Traveller, Replica Etc., not a Mastiff, Black Panther Etc.)
Remove the black rubber snorkel from the top of the airbox. Of course, all these modifications are recommended for closed course, racetrack use only.
Wink.

I also changed the pilot jet for the mikuni vm28/486/#40,,
OMG WHAT A DIFFERENCE
The bike has now lost all backfiring,It has no problems pottering around at 30mph,no longer lumpy ride,opens up a lot smoother and quicker,

now i have a question , if the spark plug starts to soot up,,what's the cure,,also at high revs in second gear the engine stalls just like the rev limiter cuts in and out really fast,,i did adjust the float bowl so i'm thinking fuel starvation,,Judging on what i've done,,any ideas if i've gone wrong anywhere??

[duncmac]

Alright Den,

Its not clear whats in the carb mod guide and what you've actually done all that to the carbs.

Sooty plug = to much fuel to air

Could be mix screw, idle jet, main jet or all of them.

Plug chopping can show you how its running at vairous throttle openings (eg drive at 30mph for a bit and then cut the engine to see what its like at 30) but you're prob better off on a dyno.

[den]

hi dunc,,ive adjusted and replaced everything recommended in that guide, I didn't drill out the jet as mentioned but also changed the pilot jet to #40 that's not mentioned,
I think im going to start with the fuel mixture screw,, 7,1/2 turns out gives me the opportunity to turn it in half turn at a time to lean it out abit ,, see if that cures the sooting ,and as for the engine stalling
It may just have been I was redlining it in second gear and the rev limiter really did cut in??
Ill video the clocks on my next ride so I can see/ hear safely on the pc later.
Don't get me wrong , I love the way the bike handles now ,The jack up kit , new fork seals and fork oil, carb modded and the exhaust heat wrapped , new tacko , I've tackled all the things that bugged me about the bike and now im happy,

[duncmac]

Sounds sweet, I took my spare sets of carb into slip stream tuning, for their "standard" carb mod.

I'll try and find out what they've done and let you know how it goes.

The garage man told me that they've replaced the tube between the float bowl and the secondary carb, but then he said the charge for it was going to be £3.16.... bit of a piss take so I'll be asking them to take it off I'm happy to stick my own 8 pence bit of 6mm tubing on it.

Hope this is not an indication of their work.

[den]

well im having problems now adjusting the mixture and getting things right ,, well i expected to have to fettle in some way,,i'm curious ,in my previous post about what i did to the carbs i raised both needle positions to the second notch from the pointy end,,well from more research it seems that the needle on the right carb is very rich from factory and ive just made it impossibly richer and will not be able to lean it out properly,,what do you think?? should i put it back ,,think its third notch in middle as standard .

[den]

well im having problems now adjusting the mixture and getting things right ,, well i expected to have to fettle in some way,,i'm curious ,in my previous post about what i did to the carbs i raised both needle positions to the second notch from the pointy end,,well from more research it seems that the needle on the right carb is very rich from factory and ive just made it impossibly richer and will not be able to lean it out properly,,what do you think?? should i put it back ,,think its third notch in middle as standard .

the "what do you think part" should have prompted a response..can you see my posts..

[duncmac]

I've not touched my carbs innards bar the float bowl.

I might get time on Sunday to open up the spare set that have been breathed upon by slipstream and let you know.

Anyone else with baggy carb experience care to chime in?

[den]

cheers duncmac ,, i just wound in my fuel screw to 4 turns out and it seems perfect now,,going to see what my gunsons colortune says over the weekend,

[den]

so i done it and gone and bought a sigma kit,,,arrived today. The jury's out on this one.including postage i paid about £40.
so what s in the kit ,, well just jets and drills,,was it worth it ,, you be the judge of that,,

slide carb main jet assortment.140/145/150.used number 140
1 pilot jet #42-vm
2 white plastic spacers,,not needed.moved clip one slot towards pointy end
2 needle shims,,not needed. moved clip one slot towards pointy end
1 plug drill for air screw access,not needed for me. done it earlier
1 cv slide drill,not used,race only..clip off two turns of cv spring
2 cv main jet drills,#50.#51. used #50 with fingers not power drill
now turn air screw out 2.5 turns

so its not a science here,, in the instruction manual it says if its rich or lean change main jet or move needle position or adjust air screw..
its still going to be guess work , low range problems=pilot/air screw..mid range is probable main jet, full throttle could be needle position,,
who knows.

sigma jet kit for baggy 660

[Gobsheen]

How did things end up Den?

[den]

How did things end up Den?

well i'm noticing the end of my exhaust is sooty,,mixture maybe,,ive put the needle back in the second carb to standard notch because of erratic rpm,, need to tune in then the second carb where it engages because of lag,,overall,,all its done is stop the popping on engine braking..50 pence jet would have done that,.my bike hates it around town , thats why i got the kit ,it loves first gear but uses it up quick ,put it in second and it just wants to speed up ,try third to coast along in traffic and no way,,just hates it , bloody bikes like a racehorse,, just don't understand slow trotting ..

[DAVID THOMPSON]

german bikes are bad about being geared way to tall

my rt125 is a good example had a top speed of almost 80 mph
i did a gear change to 52 tooth rear as speed limits are low here
does 70 mph wide open but climbs hills much better

we joke here that any where you go is up hill from where you are

had a 74 r90s bmw any time it was in 4th or 5th gear i was breaking the speed limits

dave