Skorpion Sport Cup Oil Change

[koler]

Hey guys,

I tried searching around for directions on doing an oil change for my bike and haven't been able to find anything specifically for my Skorpion. From what I have gathered, I believe I need to drain the oil from 2 different places, one on the bottom of the engine and the other possibly a bit farther up. Any pictures or diagrams as to the location of these two drain screws would be highly appreciated. I was able to locate the oil filter (which basically means I am not blind) so I got that going for me.

The procedure that I believe is correct is as follows:

1. Open the top screw on the oil filter (bleeder screw?) and the oil reservoir under the rear seat to let the oil drain more readily
2. Unscrew the drain plugs (2?) and let the oil drain out
3. Rock the bike a bit to make sure you get the most oil out
4. Remove the oil filter cover and replace it (will be a small amount of oil still in when removed)
5. Replace the drain plugs but leave the bleeder screw in the open position
6. Fill with oil (not sure on the exact amount)
7. Start bike and run in neutral for 2-3 minutes allowing the oil to circulate
8. Shut off bike and recheck oil level
9. Repeat 7 and 8 as needed then re-tighten the bleeder screw

I have not done a motorcycle oil change before and would appreciate any corrections.

Finally my last question is the weight of oil to use. Under the seat it says to use 20W40 but in winter to use 10W30. Since I live in California, my temperatures in the winter don't get much lower than the mid 40s, plus I store my bike in a garage. What weight would you guys suggest I use?

Again, any suggestions or comments are greatly appreciated!

[edfmaniac]

Start by doing your oil change just after a ride so the oil drains better. Yes. There are two draining points. The line coming from the oil tank into the bottom left side of the engine needs to come off, the one with the two socket head bolts which has an o-ring hiding behind it. Watch for the o-ring The other drain point is the somewhat large, normal looking drain plug just to the rear of the line you just removed. The line drains the tank and the plug drains the crank case. While you are loosening the bleeder on the oil filter, go ahead and loosen the bottom socket head bolt and unscrew it about 1/4". That will let most of the oil in the filter area drain back into the crank case. I think all of your other draining procedures are correct. As for filling, the bike will need two quarts to begin with. Put your oil tank cap back on and start the engine. Immediately check for oil pressure at the filter, tighten the bleeder screw and let it get to full operating temp while you are wiping down the engine. That's important if you don't want to overfill the bike. Once the bike is at full heat, top it off with up to 3/4 quart or 700-750ml. It takes a little less if you are skipping the filter on this service.

If you don't ride in temps around or below freezing regularly, I'd just run the same oil year around.