skorp fork strip down

[zippy49]

Hope this isn't too late...don't forget to check out WHY the seal failed...a bit of 1200 grit wet-or-dry will smooth any pits or dings.

[guitarzan]

Thanks Zippy, it's not too late. The washers were damaged due to being hammered in with a punch rather than a seal driver. Luckily Grahams had replacements! Should be good to go once the parts arrive.

[doppelganger]

Does anyone know where I can get an exploded diagram of the Paioli forks ('96 Skorpion Sport) or an assembly guide? I just replaced my stanchions and seals and after reassembly there were noises from the forks on the test ride. Thought I'd put everything back the way it came out but need to check.

[vicar]

Sorry I don't have a Scorpion but on most bikes its possible to change the seals without taking them apart.Remove the leg from the bike and take the seal out with a sharp pointed tool I use an old dart and screwdriver ground to a point. The seal will get bent torn ruined in the process but you are throwing it away so its no problem.
Clean the inside the top of the fork with an old toothbrush . lube the fork leg with some fork oil and slide the new seal down the fork leg . Its not hard to seat the seal into the top of the nice clean lubed fork lower . Hey presto job done no bits of wood no impact drivers no hassle .

Bung some fresh fork oil in and ride off into the sunset

[guitarzan]

doppelganger, I know there's a link to the Skorpion parts PDF here somewhere. It's a crappy drawing, but better than nothing. I also googled Paoli forks, but only found the RSU41 which is a bit different from what was produced for MZ. Usually the noise is those little white plastic rings with the thin springs that bounce around. I omitted them on my '95 when putting the forks back together.

[doppelganger]

Thanks very much guys. I actually just found an exploded diagram of the forks on the Grahams Motorcycles website (http://www.grahamsmotorcycles.com/2010 WEB SITE/Skorpion_Menu.htm). Embarrassed to admit it but I didn't note the order in which the parts came out and stupidly put the preload spacer tubes back in before the fork springs so they are now scraping merrily up and down the insides of the fork stanchions instead of remaining static at the top. I only a rode a short distance before I realised something was wrong so it should be just a matter of fishing out the springs and spacers and putting them back in the right order.

[barko1]

I found the post below and wondered if there is any different info?? I though my fork probably could use some freshening, only 12,000 miles but who knows if it was ever changed. Anyway I pulled the forks, could not find any drain plugs which are referred to in the post below but I drained out the old and now need to replace the oil with something new. I did find markings, V02, on the sliders, the bike, a Sport Cup, was made in 2/97. Any recommendations as to the amount and weight of the oil?

According to the parts book, MZ changed the type of Paioli fork used after 1996. From the parts book:

"OLD FORK VERSION: slider dark grey without any signs on the lower surface of the slider.
NEW FORK SLIDER: SLIDER SILVER COLOURED or dark grey with a cross sign and / or a poit sign on the lower surface of the slider"

Also found this piece of information somewhere:

Fork Oil Changing.
To drain, remove front wheel, locate drain plug in each leg slider, remove and drain oil. To check level of oil, remove both upper fork plugs. Remove both spacer tubes and then the springs. Position the sliders fully up. Measure from the top rim of stanchion to oil level.

Type: Early grey sliders
Oil Level : 220mm
Amount: 340ml
Grade: SAE 30

Type: Later silver sliders
Oil Level: 220ml
Amount: 300ml
Grade: SAE 10
Norman
http://www.mzskorpion.net

[Nils D]

I changed the seals on my 96 Traveller last summer - really, really hard work! (Ten years ago I did it on a 82 Honda FT 500, without any mayor problems.)
Now there were several bolts that I wasn't able to turn.
First one of the allen-bolts in the lover fork clamp was stuck and I ruined the head, I had to go a proper mechanic that could release it. (And he told me off that I was really stupid trying to change the seals on my own.)
Next the axel that I couldn't remove, but that was because I didn't have an allen-socket that big in my toolbox. Visited an firm at my work.
And finaly the bolts in bottom of the legs, had to bring the legs to on other workshop, one having a pnuematic impact driver.
I guess there had been some strong Locktite on my bolts.
And I also have a vague memory of something inside the lower part of one leg that didn't look right, but it was absolutely impossible to get hold of.
I think this was one of the hardest things I've done on my Traveller.

[DAVID THOMPSON]

if you let a bike set for a long time ..or find one to buy ..
one of the first things to do is lift the bike at the front to extend the forks
do not press down this puts dirt in the fork seal
and clean the tubes of all dust and grime
both regular and usd forks get a scum on them and it is a killer on the seals

my favorite front fork is the one BMW used 1955 to 1969 on the /2 bikes
it has its problems but for a daily driver bike i think it is the best one ever made
for all round use
if you have a bmw with one text me for the details of making it work the best it can
i have rode that front end since 1960
my r50s will do figure 8's in a parking lot with no hands on the handle bars

try that with an other bike not many will do it
dave

[barko1]

Found this fork manual
http://theoldwoolshop.co.uk/mz/Front_Forks_Manual.pdf