95 Skorpion Sport - how to remove carburator?

[WaiNYC]

Thanks for all the tips, guys

Let me get ahead of myself a bit... After I have cleaned the carb, how do I ensure that fuel level in the float chamber is per specification?

I am using the 1995 SZR660 Service Manual as guide. This procedure presents a challenge because I do not have a suitable jack for the bike, and I don't know if it's really necessary to buy a $40 (ebay) fuel level gauge.

What do you think?

[Henry74]

Hi I am currently cleaning up the carbs and setting the float hight.
You can read my post Scorpion Tour looses power after 2 km drive

Now a member was kind enough to tell me that the height of the float bowl should be between 25 - 27 mm.
Mine is 30mm so I had to adjust it.

You need to take the carburetors out unscrew the float bowl cover ( 4 screws )
With the carbs right way up push the floats up untill the needle just closes the fuel inlet. You need to careful since this needle has a loaded springy button. It closes just as it does not travel up and just as you slightly load its springy button.

Measure the distance between the bottom of the black plastic float and the mating surface of the carburetor to the float bowl cover.

adjustment if required is by bending the tab that pushes the needle.

Sorry i closed my carburator with a bit of sealer otherwise I would have posted some pics

[Henry74]

otherwise you can pack wood under the engine to bring it level, and attach a clear flexible plastic hose and measure it with a good ruler

it will cost next to nothing

[breakwellmz]

Surely If it`s done only 3000 miles from new it`s unlikely to need the float height or the valve clearances checking, i doubt it`s fully`run in`.

[edfmaniac]

Surely If it`s done only 3000 miles from new it`s unlikely to need the float height or the valve clearances checking, i doubt it`s fully`run in`.

LOL. The bike sat for 10 years didn't it? It should be gone through completely if the new owner wants a bike that will run like it's got 3000 miles on it. As for the valves, most people consider an engine fully broken in at 1500 miles. If the valves are going to settle in, they will have done so by now and need to be checked. You could run the risk of not having enough clearance, allowing combustion gases to escape the chamber and cause long term problems with the valves and seats. Why not check them is the question you should ask someone new to bikes who is trying to learn the proper way to maintain them.

In my opinion.!

[Chuck in Indiana]

Surely If it`s done only 3000 miles from new it`s unlikely to need the float height or the valve clearances checking, i doubt it`s fully`run in`.

LOL. The bike sat for 10 years didn't it? It should be gone through completely if the new owner wants a bike that will run like it's got 3000 miles on it. As for the valves, most people consider an engine fully broken in at 1500 miles. If the valves are going to settle in, they will have done so by now and need to be checked. You could run the risk of not having enough clearance, allowing combustion gases to escape the chamber and cause long term problems with the valves and seats. Why not check them is the question you should ask someone new to bikes who is trying to learn the proper way to maintain them.

In my opinion.!

Absolutely.

[breakwellmz]

Sorry gentlemen you are quite right!

Having pulled out my handbook i see that the valve clearances should be checked every 6000km(about 3600 miles) I`ve not checked mine for some time, something else to put on the`to do`list.
That reminds me, i wonder how STANIMAL is getting on with his`far too simple`single carb conversion.
I felt my Mastiff engine didn`t fully loosen up till around the 10,000 mile mark where it became more flexible and tractable, as well as still being super quick.

[WaiNYC]

And yes, if the brass nut is backed off the threads all the way, the choke assembly should pull out fairly easily.

]

Hate to be going back to the same issue... But as you can see from the pic, the brass nut is completely unscrewed - I can even pull the nut 2 mm away and see the spring inside. But I am afraid to pull or yank the brass nut further, for fear of damaging the spring.

How should I proceed? Do I continue by unscrewing the elbow tube itself? Thanks again for all the help.

[DAVID THOMPSON]

a good soak with sea foam is next

and if that fails then a modest amount of heat and then cool several times on the aluminum part DO BE CAREFUL
clean all the fuel out of it and the flame from a small candle on the aluminum part to make it expand a bit several times.

i am having the same problem with my MZ rt 125
dave

[WaiNYC]

After soaking in sea form, do I just pull the brass nut loose? or continue by unscrewing the elbow tube?

Thank you again.

[edfmaniac]

Once the nut is loose, as shown in the photo, it should slide right out. It's obviously stuck so soaking is about all you can do. I don't see heat doing much in this situation because it's likely corrosion causing the binding. It might help, but I think penetrating oil(PB Blaster), time and some force is about all that will get that plunger to come out.

[DAVID THOMPSON]

it just slide in there and gets corrosion needs silicon oil regularly
have had it happen before on a Yamaha 250
its a very tight fit to begin with and a common problem on these carbs

[breakwellmz]

Isn`t it a brass plunger that is stuck in the body that hangs on the cable end? A good couple of days soaking in `Plusgas`is a good start.
A mini blow torch or lighter is more efficient than the candle to break down the corrosion. or an oven at about 200C frees most things.

[DAVID THOMPSON]

checked at my local shop he had a listing for the brass thing
so drilling it out is an option

with the word "carefully" as the key word

[WaiNYC]

The choke cable is still bugging me

I have an addition piece of information to add. The choke lever is actually quite tight. Even before I started taking the bike apart, I had noticed that the choke lever could not move all the way. This is not normal, isn't it? Do you think it has anything to do with why the choke cable is stuck inside the carb?

Choke lever, at disengaged position

This is as far as the lever will go

Additionally, there is a brass object behind the chamber that houses the throttle valve, which seems to lie on the same axis as the brass nut (and choke cable assembly). Do you think it is something I need to push or wiggle to get the choke cable out?