On running a 2T without oil: I suspect you should see clear signs on the piston & barrel (if not a total seizure), and after that the small end & big end to go, in that order, while the main bearings I would expect to go last. Possibly what happened is that it was assembled with the main bearings under axial load. That might cause extra wear.
Your '93 Saxon Tour looks presumably like this:
To me that looks quite similar to my ETZ 251, with the exception of several cosmetic differences. Structural differences like cast wheels & another disk should not really impact the handling, but it also might have a different frame. (I don't know the Saxon, but the pillion footrests seem different, as does the centre stand.) And of course I cannot see how the forks work, or the shocks for that matter.
From what you describe I'd have a look at the damping, of both the forks and the shocks. Compare them individually (left vs. right). Take out the front wheel, remove mudguard & unscrew the cap holding the spring, then feel if the damping left & right feels the same, & check if oil level is same. Replace oil? Shocks similar, take off & remove springs, put them in the vise & feel if they function same. If you can service these, consider new oil. If so desired you can increase or decrease the damping (on either end) by using thicker or thinner oil, while the oil level in the forks will impact how progressive the springing action is.
Spacers on top of the springs can be used to alter the preload, impacting the neutral position of the forks, and with that the whole bike. But the standard should be OK. For a high mileage bike the forks can become laterally weak (handlebar can move while wheel doesn't), and of course the steering head needs to be in good order.
I'd be surprised if it's that fairing. But of course maybe yours looks different.
Good luck!