As some will remember, I had reeds on my 251 for a couple of years (see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=9224&p=47843#p47821 ). While the top speed (or maximum power) did probably not increase, it made the engine's power curve smoother. More torque at the lower rev range, requiring less gear shifting and actually a more pleasant riding. Going fast was not the objective, just a wide power band. I used it for a couple of years, 3 or 4, for a daily commute.
I removed the reed valve gizmo because my home-made reeds were showing their age.
I had made those reeds from Aramide (=Kevlar) fibre impregnated with epoxy, and I had chosen that fibre because of its resilience. Those kevlar strands are very difficult to break, and consequently, the reeds are quite stable. They shouldn't break, and therefore pose very little risk to the engine.
Nevertheless, with time a crack appeared in both of them, at the location where they bend strongest:
Note that the ragged edges are not necessarily a sign of wear, this material is quite difficult to work & shape. Tools (files/grinders/knives/drills) remove the binding epoxy fine, but fail to properly cut the aramide strands. A good example are the holes I drilled to fit the reeds; obviously there is no wear there (no movement), but you just cannot drill a decent hole in this stuff with normal tools.
But that's not the issue, the problem is that both reeds are more or less cracked, about 6mm upwards from the holes. A darkened line indicates that crack: some fluid has impregnated there. Maybe oil, although in those days I used the oil pump, yet some mixture will blow back. Those cracks have caused the reeds to bend:
And that causes the whole reed valve to stay open in its neutral state: