TS250 5 SPEED

[breakwellmz]

It hasn`t got a blocked silencer has it?

[Andy_C]

Breakwell - dont think it has a blocked silencer, when it did run it ran pretty well.

It will get the caustic soda treatment in due course.

[Puffs]

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[Andy_C]

Puffs - I only found out about leakdown tests from the Kawasaki KTOG website, a specialist Kawasaki Triple website - I am lucky enough to have an H2 Triple but never had any running issues with it.

It's true what you say about the test / making up various plugs etc - they also have to be leakproof. I'll just fit the seals and see what happens, I have faith that they are the problem.

I guess that a positive pressure is prefered to stop anythig being sucked into the engine if you had a bad leak, also having a positive pressure allows you to spray a soap mixture around to look for bubbles which is the sign of a leaking seal.

Think that some of the late kickstart engagement may have been down to the worn cotter pin allowing the kickstart pedal to rotate on the shaft without turniing it.

Looking forward to all the "goodies" arriving so that I can put it all back together

[Puffs]

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[Andy_C]

Puffs - wrongly assembled, just wondering perhaps it was assembled dry, that could cause the wear I guess.

As you say lets wait and see.............

[Andy_C]

The new seals have now arrived - double lips !!

Weather is too nice to sit in the garage putting it ll back together, this weekend is going to be a riding weekend on my other bikes.

[Puffs]

Riding in the sunshine is not to be missed - enjoy!

[Andy_C]

Did 47 miles on the H2 today, talk about hot - drank about 3 litres of expensive mineral water bough from garages along the way.

Hope that you are not a victim of the floods that are in the news - guessing not as you are still posting.

[Puffs]

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[Andy_C]

The new seals have been fitted, on both sides there were no discernable lips on the seals.

On the drive side one there was evidence of leakage so I am hoping this has now fixed my running problems.

Hope to see if it fires up tomorrow in between the heavy rain that is forecast for the weekend.

Fitting a new kickstart cotter pin has moved the engagement point of the kickstart a little - the old pin looked it was the wrong size and was pretty "mashed" where it contacted the kickstart shaft, ended up drilling it out, then collapsing it in on itself to get it out, I have noticed a lot of wear on the kickstart pedal causing the pedal not ot be horizontal, I plan to build it back up with a little weld.

[Blurredman]

Fitting a new kickstart cotter pin has moved the engagement point of the kickstart a little - the old pin looked it was the wrong size and was pretty "mashed" where it contacted the kickstart shaft, ended up drilling it out, then collapsing it in on itself to get it out, I have noticed a lot of wear on the kickstart pedal causing the pedal not ot be horizontal, I plan to build it back up with a little weld.

I have to say that this is really quite a common problem. I can't say whether it's 30ish years of stress or a lot of over zealous kicking by previous owners frustrated their bikes won't start but on both my etz's at least and my brothers too.. all three bikes had bent cotter pins that had to be drilled out and all three of the original kick-starts had split around the cotter pin area. The kickstart twists over time it seems and causes this bending and stressing.. you can generally see how bad the kickstart is by how perpendicular the fold out part of the kickstart is to the bike.. If it's bending beyond 90 degrees to the bike it could be well stressed. Anyway, both of mine at least have had cheap aftermarket kickstart and cotter pins. It's no big deal but just an interesting note I thought you might like to know.

[Puffs]

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[Andy_C]

Started 3rd kick, ran for a bit and........died, plug was fouled, just like before, hard to say whether it was oiled.

Cant see that the seals would self destruct after running for what was about 30 seconds.

When I did the seals I turned the engine over and looked at the bearings best I could - grabbing the end of the crank I could not detect any movement or feel any roughness and the surface of the crank looked fine.

When I bought the bike the first time I used it, it started fine, I am wondeirng if perhaps there is something up with the carb, although I have been over a couple of times, but I will check again.

If that fails I gather that there is an o ring seal between the crankcases that can allow gearbox oil into the crankcase if it fails, or someone forgets to refit when assembling the engine - find it hard to believe that is the issue though, since I did ride the bike for about 10 miles just after I bought it.

If I find nothing wrong with the carb, I'll probably pull the top end off and see if there is anything collected in the crankcases - if the old drive side seal had allowed oil to pass it, I guess it is possible that there could be quite a bit in the crankcase.

I m starting to get pretty frustrated to be honest, this is the 4th MZ I have owned and I have never had problems like this before.

[Andy_C]

Had a thought this morning - wondering if the rubber on the choke plunger has become hard and is not closing off the flow properley.

That would certainly make it run very rich, something to take a look at,