New ES250 Trophy Project!

[Blurredman]

Thanks Guesi for the information.

I had a feeling that the lack of shims was original.

And interesting insight in regards to the advance/retard mechanism.. It explains why the manual says to only set timing after first jaming the weights out to their fully open position.




As for the project progression. Yes I did sand a little of around the burrs, but so little removed I forsee it as a non-issue.

Crank is still away. I've received all my bearings now, just awaiting my purchase from Hungary. I've cleaned the crankcase halfs and pressure washered them too, but they still need more deep cleaning.. Maybe this is incitive to set the dish washer up.

[Puffs]

Good going!
On the sanding, it's no issue in the sense of consequences, I just would have preferred to use a knife like this:

Insofar as consequences are concerned, I suppose you could also just have left it.

[Blurredman]

Been awhile. I've kinda been awaiting on parts (still am), but moreso, I finally installed my dishwasher.

I don't have a sandblaster, so my best way to wash is to de-grease and then power-wash the crankcase halfs. The next best thing above that is putting them in the dishwasher, which did clean them up to another level. They're still a bit dirty.. but the dirt is stuck on the outside, in places where very little mileage would just collect more. I can't be bothered cleaning these places. Think of me as you will.



And yes, I got a bit ahead of myself and installed the blind bearing before taking a picture of the after wash.



I'm kinda stuck now. I forgot to order the oil seals for the front bearing (behind the generator), and the sprocket oil seal. So I've installed most of the bearings into the engine. Except the rhs crank bearing. I will hammer that in from the outter side, past the point where it is supposed to sit, then install the oil cover, with it's shim. Then hammer the bearing back against this. This is what I did with the LHS bearing which is encapsulated by a circlip on the outside. I'll also be doing this with the sprocket, rear most bearing. Which also has a cover with shim, just like etz.


Anyway, at a bit of a loss of things to do, but a sudden apparentness of having time on my hands. I decided to change the tyres, which I must admit was something I was going to do quite late in the process.. But I ended up doing it now.








The rear on this is a Vee Rubber VRM-159 3.5x16 that cost £33 and the front is a Kings KT-918 3x16 at a cost of £19
I managed to re-use the tape of both wheels, and although the front tube had a bit of a leaky valve, I lubricated and ran the core in and out a few times and it's now sealed. The rear tube had a patch near the valve which is no longer sealing. So although I bought a brand new tube, I put in an old (and patched) tube that I had sitting around that was on the rear of my etz251. I'll repair this Pneumant tube (both pneumants and in seemingly great condition), and put it aside for the future.

As for the looks of them. The front looks okay. I'm not sure I like the look of the rear too much.. The tread makes it look a bit like some pneumants/heidenaus or metzellers, but the way it goes around onto the sidewall I think looks odd. But still, they'll do well I am sure!

The old tyres were a little problem to come off, infact the bead wire on the rear broke whilst I was pulling it over the wheel. It broke from rust.

[Puffs]

On that seal you forgot to order, can't you install it after joining the halves? RH crankcase seal, on the outside.

On the tyres, from what I see that Vee-rubber seems to look fine. And if the steel belt in the bead breaks, the old one was bloody dangerous!

[Blurredman]

There's nothing wrong with the tyre. It just looks funny to me.. I'll get used to it.. Also it's new, and all new tyres do have a nice colour to them... when they fade through use and get dirty.. It should look better..


I could indeed have just installed the bearing and the cap and shim.. But then I would need to put in place the gasket too, and i'd rather not mess around with gaskets until final assembly really, even if they are dry and would be fine. It just means more work for me to remove the cap again, to push the seal on.... But that said, reactively thinking about it... It's best practice to take the cap back off anyway, and install it after puting the crankshaft in (in order that it's seal is sat squarely on the shaft that rotates within it). That would need to be done anyway, thinking about it. I'd also want to lubricate the bearings before final assembly (and to do that I need to get at them from the outter side of the case halfs). The same with the sprocket shaft seal cap RE fitting squarely on the shaft, would need to be done too.


EDIT: I often look up the DVLA website to check whether my papers have been processed. And after 7 weeks, they finally have..

And from that, I can see that they have confirmed also that it is now registered as 'historic', as the bike is now 'taxed', and the MOT (road safety yearly inspection) is green, meaning it's MOT exemption has also been confirmed. Shouldn't be more than a week now until I have returned paperwork and I can see if they spelt my name wrongly or something like that which requires sending it off again...

[Puffs]

On the way the thread goes around onto the sidewall: yes, on this VRM-159 indeed the outside edge is open, while for instance on the Heidenau K36 & Metzeler ME77 the outer edge is closed:

A closed edge might be preferable for stability at high lean angles, but I think any benefit is small, and many tyres in this class have an open edge (various Mitas, even the M45).

Congratulations on your administrative progress!

[Blurredman]

Time has given way to progress!

I spent some time yesterday putting in the crankcase seals, and fully seating the bearings where they are supposed to be. For example, putting the gasket, and cap and shim in place on the RHS crankcase, andthen punching the bearing home- same with the sprocket bearing and seal.

Took a bit of time to work out how the gearbox goes back in- not because it was complicated, but because I had trouble trying to work out the gearchange mechanism and the selector drum. But got there in the end! It's a funny old mechanism..
Putting the cases together to test gear selection several times found me right. There is a punch mark in the middle of the teeth of the gear selector mechanism, which corresponds to a shamferered edged tooth on the selector drum. It can be difficult to see..




So this is where everything stands. The crankshaft is in the freezer, and i'll be having a little go at trying to install it into the LHS crancase half. Hopefully it won't be an issue but I can warm it up if it is- but I don't really want to do this. Regardless, with successful crankshaft installation into the LHS case half, i'll be applying RTV and hopefully mating them together.




RE Documents: Indeed I was correct in my last post. I have received my documentation. Spelling and vehicle classification is correct. Basically, all I need to do is put the bike together and insure it and I can ride it legally. I'll definately have to do A LOT of local test riding when that day comes...

As for open/closed edged tyres, I doubt these bikes go fast... I mean... I don't go more than 70 really through being nice to the bike/engines. I think 60/65 might be a nice sustainable speed for this machine.. (?) Anyway, can't tell until I ride it, and even then- I doubt i'd be doing that speed on the edge of the tyre..

[Puffs]

Good going!

Nah, I'd expect 55-60 tops, but it's enough. I never rode one like that, but I expect a wide powerband, similar to my 4-speed Jawa from the same era.

[Blurredman]

Well, the engine is back in the bike and all together, clutch, clutch cover, filled with engine oil..

But i've spent so very many hours in total over the last few days trying to just start the thing!

At first there was some action and you could see some puffs from the exhaust.. But now there is no life in it at all, it doesn't have any feeling of starting. I've checked the timing, it has fuel and air- compression seems fair- (it ran before..!).

But it just won't go..



Additionally, it seems the drainbolt for the trans oil has completely stripped threads on the clutch cover side.. That's annoying..

[Puffs]

All it should need, as you know, is fuel + compression + a spark... Hope you find it!

[Blurredman]

Nah it's not going- not even a 'puff'.

I did think the float valve was off- so I used some spacers (the old one happened to break) and re-adjust the floats appropriately, but I really don't know. The engine must have had a litre of petrol go through it, without it actually doing anything.. So the carb is left off for now, and so is the spark plug. My intention is to put it to one side for a week or so and hopefully that fuel will evaporate.. And try again. If it goesn't go then i'll put a chain on it and go to the top of the hill near me and see what happens..

Just for what it's worth, i've confirmed spark happens at 3mm btdc,
that the head is indeed earthed,
double checked the wiring.


Bit lost - it doesn't even want to go.

[dave47]

Thats annoying.
Reducing the timing to 2.5mm might make it a bit easier to start. Is the battery definitely fully charged.
Will ptfe tape hold the drain plug temporarily.

[Puffs]

A 2T not wanting to give any puffs won't do.

The obvious thing: try a carb from one of your ETZ's?
But first, before you fit another carb (so with no carb & no plug), kick it to clear the crankcase.

Good luck.

[Blurredman]

Well, I initially tried your suggestion Puffs, despite the fact that the ES250 uses 28mm carb and I had to wedge things in to use the etz manifold. But alas nothing..

But before I came to that, I did try starting it after the last few days the crankcase has been 'open'. It did make a sputter.

So I wondered if it was simply drowned of fuel.

I tried to put the bike in top gear and have it spin over with a drill with the appropriately large sized flat head in the rear sprocket spindle, but it wasn't budging at all (infact my drill is now quite hot and worn and smokey- no biggy, I had it free with my house, if I have to buy a new one then so be it), but it wasn't going anywhere.

So I dropped the oil and took the clutch cover off to look to find binding or, anything really that might be a useful indicator, but I found nothing. I could however spin the rear sprocket whilst the bike was in gear (it took a lot of effort from this cheap, free little drill), but eventually it span the engine over and a lot of fuel came bursting out the spark plug hole. Now I thought this was a good sign, short of putting hte chain on and going to a long hill this was the easiest way of turning the engine over in gear at a steady rate.

Excited, I put the clutch cover back on and installed the original 28mm carburettor, and after a few kicks (no choke but with some throttle).. it started..! It was mis-firey at first and didn't want to idle or rev etc but after a minute or two I managed to get the bike to a tick over whereby i wouldn't need to intervene with the throttle.

And at this point: I did check the battery to see if it was getting charged but it wasn't... I did realise the other day I had accidentally had DF and D+ swapped in the wrong positions. I'm wondering if I have destroyed the generator... I hope not.. Hope rather maybe the voltage regulator has broken or just needs cleaning/adjusting- I've not touched that.

But it runs.. I can carry on now with my project in the sense of putting the chain on, and changing the rear hub bearing and properly connecting the clutch and stuff.





Dave: As for the drain screw- I might have to come back to that- there is literally only one thread keeping the bolt in. I think the best course of action would be to either helicoil (I don't have that kit) or tap it for a larger bolt.

[Puffs]

That sounds more promising. Then maybe the fuel valve in your 28mm carb failed to close & allowed the crankcase to fill with fuel.

I hope you have enough meat for either a helicoil or an oversize thread.