TS250 5 SPEED

[Andy_C]

Cases were true / flat and undamaged.

Could be a crack that opens up when cases are pulled together - that really would be annoying.

As I said my money is on the carb now - once I have the "known to be good" carb that I am being sent, I'll report back.

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[Andy_C]

I did consider that, but I took the float bowl off and checked that the float was shutting the fuel off by manually movig the float, so pretty sure it is not that, also when I take the float bowl off the fuel level is the correct height.

Thanks to the internet another fellow MZ rider (who I have never met) is sending me a known to be good carburettor to try on my bike - hopefully it will turn up next week.

Fingers crossed that will solve the riddle.

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[Andy_C]

Update time.....again.

The known to be good carburettor arrived yesterday, comparing it to my carburettor, the only difference I could see was in the air screw.

Mine has a much shallower taper on it, which could explain some of the richness.

With this carb fitted it starts much easier and will run, however it died again after a while - but ran much longer than before.

So I fitted another brand new plug, and it runs much better. The 3 plugs that I have been using all seem to be "dead" now.

They spark outside the engine but once in the bike they no longer work. Wondering if perhaps being drenched in petroil has killed them. Even heating with a blowlamp will not persuade them to work so I have now binned them.

And now a moment.

On the frame on the throttle side there is a lug with a hole in it on the headstock (what is that lug for by the way?) and both the throttle cable and choke cable were routed over that lug, then up inside the headlamp mount and onto the throttle and choke. I noticed that when I turned the handlebars the choke cable was going out over the lug and catching underneath it, and that was pulling the choke slightly on - why did I not spot that?

Choke cable is now re routed outside the headlamp mount and has plenty of free play and does not pull the choke when turning the bars - what is the correct cable routing by the way?

I have had the bike running long enough to get it really hot - I even ran it with the fuel tap off untill the engine died in the hope that it might suck any excess still in the crankcase int the cylinder and burn it.

The acid test will be to take it out for a run, not declaring it fixed just yet, only when I have put some miles on it without it dying will that be declared, but things are looking good........at last

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[jam23a30]

Andy,

as suggested the lug on the front right of the super 5 head stock is for the steering lock to engage into.

my throttle cable runs inside the right headlamp mount and right hand side of the head stock. My choke cable runs to the left hand side of the head stock. I don't know if there is a better layout but as always the smoother the alignment you can achieve the better. Once you have confidence in the layout a new cable or treating your existing cable to a lube will improve the operation too.

Well done in figuring out the issue and I hope it restores your confidence in the bike,

Andy

[Andy_C]

Andy.

Dont know what bars you have on your bike, but mine has the high bars, so I had to buy longer throttle, clutch & brake cables.

Dont seem to be able to buy a longer choke cable.

If I run the throttle cable to the left of the headstock it is not long enough.

Had another fiddle this afternoon - throttle is now RH side of the headstock and inside the headlamp mount, I have left the choke outside of the headlamp mount and lightly cable tied it to the brake cable to stop it flapping about.

I can turn the bars lock to lock and no strain on the choke cable - solution looks pretty tidy, so I'll see how it goes.

Good news started it up today, started second kick and settled down to a nice idle at about 1200RPM, I let it run through a carb of fuel and it was sweet, no stalling / fouled plug, took the plug out and it looked OK for an engine that had been idling.

Hopefully take it out for a couple of miles tomorrow.

If it runs OK, I'll slowly build up the miles to get some confidence.

About 75% confident that it's now good to go and a big thankyou to everyone who has comented on this thread and given me the encouragement to stick with it.

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Seeing that your original symptoms are all gone now, sounds like you knocked it.

Do make sure the jetting is suitable, and then: enjoy the bike!

[Andy_C]

YES YES YES and YES again

Did about 5 miles on it a short time ago. Started second kick ran perfectly.

Checked the plug when I got back after a mixture of fast and slow roads - and it looked pretty good, certainly not weak so I am not going to mess with carburation for a while.

No problems hitting an indicated 60MPH, very reminiscent of my ETZ but it seems to pull from lower revs - but the TS engines do dont they?

Amazed that there was absolutley no surging on the overrun, all but got rid of it on my ETZ but no signs of it at all on this one.

Tickover is set to around 1500RPM, and it "dances" around a bit at tickover, but as soon as you are moving silky smooth, in fact I forgot just how smooth these bikes are.

So the problems look to be solved.

Hoping to rack up some decent miles now.

And thanks again to everyone.

P.S. Though the brakes were supposed to be poor on these bikes - no issues with the front one, but the rear is a bit lacking, mind you the front one might be down to a small mod I made to the torque arm, I made a new one that has a rose joint at each end, the idea being that it will allow the brake plate to move around when you apply the brake unlike the factory setup that will not allow the plate to move.

[Blurredman]

Congratulations.. And you were so close to giving up.. Think about that..

As for the cable routing, both my choke and throttle cables on both my etz's actually hang down a bit from the handlebar and loop into the small rectangle bracket that holds the bolt/nut for the horn. from there they go straight down the frame. I'm not sure if the horn on the TS's are mounted in such a way?

[Andy_C]

Took it out for another swift 7 mile run this evening - really impressed with how well it goes.

Rear end was a bit squirmy, took a look at the tyre, according to the date code it is at least 20 years old. perhaps even 30, think that explains the squirm as all bearings check out OK.

New Mitas on order to match the new front one - used Mitas on my ETZ and more than happy with them.

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[Andy_C]

The code was in the WWY format so could be 20 or 30 years old!!

Just to give you an idea about how hard it had got I had to take a saw to the tyre and cut a section out before I could get it off the rim - the bead would just not stretch.

New tyre and tube on order, hopefully have it fitted by the weekend.