ETZ(including Kanuni), ETS, ES, TS, IFA-RT, BK, Saxon,
Moderators: DAVID THOMPSON, phlat65
by mick » Mon Nov 21, 2022 3:10 am
Sorry. I forgot to say the old bearings were only to check things and all the bearings will be replaced with the new SKF ones I have bought.
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mick
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by Puffs » Mon Nov 21, 2022 4:18 am
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by mick » Mon Nov 21, 2022 11:05 am
The piston is a polish Kolben so not one you have mentioned, do you have any knowledge of these or if they any good. Armstrongs have just called to say it's ready.
Ta
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by Puffs » Tue Nov 22, 2022 4:45 am
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by Kruh » Tue Nov 22, 2022 8:05 am
I bought the polish Almot piston this year for my TS. I got the cylinder bored with a 0.05 mm clearance and with about 400 km of easy riding for the break in, I have no issues.
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by Puffs » Tue Nov 22, 2022 10:51 am
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by mick » Wed Nov 23, 2022 2:37 am
Thanks everyone for your advice on the pistons, I will ask Armstrongs to hone it out a little larger and should have the engine built by next week.
Ta
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by mick » Sun Dec 04, 2022 5:27 am
I decided to replace the oil guide discs after I found some quite bad stress raisers on mine. I must have missed inspecting the discs somehow and am waiting for the new ones to arrive.
Can I ask what type/brand of two stroke oil and what ratio to use when running the engine on these bikes. I have heard that the 50.1 mix was causing main bearings to fail early and I need some oil to use when reassembling the engine. Can anyone using a TS 250 let me know what they are using and at what ratio.
Cheers folks
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by Puffs » Mon Dec 05, 2022 5:53 am
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by mick » Mon Dec 05, 2022 8:15 am
Thanks Puffs, that's just what i need and will use it on assembly hopefully this week. just need to clean the carburettor and source a toothed rim for the clutch and clutch body as they have been welded together for some reason.
Ta
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by Blurredman » Tue Dec 06, 2022 3:19 am
I buy the cheapest oil I can. I don't think i've ever bought a 'brand' unless I was stuck or it was REALLY cheap (like clearance cheap). These days even 500ml bottles in the petrol stations are far too overpriced for what they are. I also buy 20l barrels and use up a barrel every 2 years. I used to use 30ish to 1. Now I use 40 to 1 on all three of my MZs.
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by mick » Wed Dec 07, 2022 1:52 am
Thanks for your help. I have bought some of the semi synthetic oil shown in puffs reply and as this engine is going to a man with a big collection of all kinds of bikes and will not be doing too much riding on this unless he falls for it, the expense won't be a problem.
Mind you he was taken with a little dot with a 2T Villier's engine and is why he traded with me for the MZ.
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by mick » Thu Dec 08, 2022 4:01 am
Hi Folks.
I have a decision to make concerning the clutch on this engine as it has been modified by welding the clutch body to the toothed rim for the clutch, and
then the whole thing has then been faced off in the lathe to bring down any weld above the clutch body so the pressure plat sits flat. Does anybody see an advantage in doing this?
I see you can buy new old stock toothed rims can be bought but I cannot find any clutch body's online. I would also say that the balance would be affected to a degree.
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by Blurredman » Thu Dec 08, 2022 4:06 am
Hi,
I have seen these welded clutches several times. I do believe they have been done by the factory on particularly the TS's - Not sure why some TS's have and some do not. After all my much earlier Trophy has the face detachable. You may or may not notice the missing nuts and bolts (and indeed holes!) that would otherwise attach the clutch face to the splined section like below...
I wonder if they just tried to experiment but then decided that it was easier for the consumer just to have the front face come off for replacement if necessary as opposed to having to replace the splined section as well and decided against the weld idea.
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by Puffs » Thu Dec 08, 2022 6:11 am
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