Fil wrote:Yes, I had the BSM before. I'm not sure the midrange is worse, it just feels like there is more of a step when the second card comes in (I assume that's what the step is...).
I adjusted the linkage to bring the second carb on earlier, and the mixture screw is set at 2.5 turns out.
I just wondered if anyone had any set-up tips before I have to spend some cash on a dyno session...
Keep on trying with the idle adjustment - the pilot screw and idle adjuster. Find the threads on advrider about setting it up on the LC4 Mikuni BST (it's a similar situation - big thumper with CV carb) ...probably start with the LC4 Index Thread. I think it's very useful to get a better understanding of what goes on with these idle settings - like what it means when adjusting the screw makes no difference, the effect on low end to midrange transition and so on.
The step - maybe dip - in the torque curve to where you feel it get stronger than before........it sounds like it's just something not right ..with the off-idle and low-end to midrange transition, then once it's past that you get the power coming in properly.
Does the kit provide a main jet for the primary carb? (There's that recommendation that you go from 130 to 135 there.) Given that it's the primary carb, I think that could affect the off-idle to midrange a lot.
The advrider BST articles will help you figure out if it's too lean or too rich there. Then you can try adjusting the needle - that new Dynojet needle.
Do you have the seal on the front of the airbox? Take it off and see if it improves or not. If it improves, you need more air. Needle too rich or modify the airbox first before changing the needle setting.
It's a pain to do it, I know, but what else? You want to avoid the dyno /bux, and that's no good unless there's someone there that can tune ...it could take half the day, at least. ...? expensive and no guarantee.